ECN Forum Forums General Topics of the Trade General Discussion Area switch?

Cindy:
The original thread was to use a standard 3-way switch, no the cables dont know the difference but switches have a tendency to arc and eventually burn up.
If the water heater can be disconnected by an attachment plug that should be fine, if the manufacturer says it to be so.
The wiring connections suggested seemed like a bad idea. A switch is suppose to have an off position not an on and an on position. To me, and this is just my opinion, you want to connect a water heater, small I assume, and a disposal. Why not two switches and a multi-wire circuit to the same yoke, or no switch for the hot water heater as long as it can be disconnected at the receptacle and a switch for the disposal.
I personally dont like the idea of a switch that cannot be turned off.
JMO
-Mark-

Cindy,

If you type the following (the stuff inside the code quote block) then it should work (if I get this right...)


and it will look like this:


Go here:
https://www.electrical-contractor.net/ubb/ubbcode.html

...for more tricks of UBB!

[This message has been edited by sparky66wv (edited 07-13-2002).]

Hmmm.. that's weird, the code tags should make it ignore the "quote" part in brackets so you can see it.

Another thing you can do is to click on the "edit post" button to see the coding involved.

[This message has been edited by sparky66wv (edited 07-13-2002).]

just trying to avoid both appliances operating at the same time. thats all.

the idea was to use 1 circuit efficiently. only way to do this is to use a device that cuts out one when using the other as is commonly done in electrical installations. even the neutral is used similarly, right? each phase gets to use it alternately.

imagine leaving instructions for a family to be sure the water heater switch is off before using the disposer switch

wont go there, so i wont wire it to allow both to be on at the same time, even if that draw were within 80% of the 20 amp circuit capacity. i'm still trying to understand your concern about a 3-way switch not having an off position, its a matter of persective. it is "off" for the disposer one way, then "off" for the heater the other way...... so maybe you're thinking now that this installation is waaaaaay "off"

i'm not trying to cut a corner just to make $, was just looking for an efficient use of materials and to save customer $ at the same time. joes opinion is its "not a normal way" to disconnect and might be hard to understand. marks opinion, its a "bad idea" for a wiring arrangement and use of a switch. hoping for something less subjective.

thanks for your JMO mark and joe[i'm sure you guys know a lot more than i do], hope i didnt disappoint or offend you and joe or anyone else[and i wouldnt want anyone reading or lurking to use this idea if it is a poor installation method, i'm just not convinced yet]

so 66 i'm trying it
i'm doing my yeehaw now just in case it works

Cindy:
Ok, Here goes, by definition of a Switch
article 100, Switch general-use, intended for general use of the distribution and branch circuits, rated in amps and capable of interrupting its rated current.
Switch, Motor-circuit, rated in hp capable of interrupting max overload current of a motor of the same hp rating as the switch at the rated voltage.
This would imply a significant difference, but that aside and considering that they both could be on the same circuit within the 80 % as you said, Why not a switch for the disposal and a receptacle for the water heater. That way they both have a disconnect and the water heater is on all the time and the disposal could be operated at will without interupting the hot water tank.
For me I cannot conccede the 3-way to be hot all the time and not have an off position. For one thing DIYers have a tendency to change things and not always understanding why or what they are changing, leastwise if we leave them a solid foundation to start with maybe they wont run amok as quickly.
As far as knowing more than you, I am not so sure, if I ever get too old to learn something new then they better close the lid.
As I said this is just how I see it

-Mark-

I do not feel that the switch above the counter for the disposal is its disconnect. If you are working in the sink cabinet (where the disposal is) this switch is not with sight and could easily be turned on by someone. The disconnect for both of these appliances would be their supply cords. Using a double throw switch (3-way) to control the disposal might be confusing to some but in no way compromise the disconnecting means required for these appliances. I would never make an original installation in this way but Cindy is trying to work with an existing installation and trying to come up with a easy solution to connect 2 appliances to one circuit. The air switch would probably be the best bet for this job since it is designed for this exact application.

Curt