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Joined: Oct 2000
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Happy Birthday Admin Offline OP
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(These homes are going for 7 digits, at a five-star resort here in WV)

[Linked Image]

My job was to see why the dimmer switch wasn't connected to anything, after viewing plans for a bid on a similar home, I realized the intentions were to dim a switched receptacle, and the recept wasn't connected yet... My hunch was right, but found much more... I'll let you guys and gals point the violations out...

[Linked Image]

My gut says dimming a receptacle is a no-no, but I'm not sure of any code reference... I have a report due Monday that I'll be working on tomorrow and through the weekend. Sorry (for the last time) for the bad resolution. I've finally bought a mega-pixel macro capable camera (that I haven't used yet)!!

What would a "dimmed" receptacle do to a power tool?

-Virgil

Joined: Nov 2001
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Virgil:
I cannot cite a code article covering this either (although I feel pretty sure that one exists somewhere). I do know that manufacturers of these dimmers recommend them for use only with permanently fixed non-inductive (excluding such things as electric motors and lamps using transformers in a power supply)loads. These dimmers cannot take the strain imposed by "hot patching" (which, in stage lighting parlance, refers to plugging a load circuit into a dimmer while the dimmer is hot...common in theatrical work, where dimmers are built heavier to accommodate this). If the dimmer were of sufficient ampacity to handle the power tool when it "loads down", and the dimmer were turned all the way up full, probably nothing would happen. If, however, the dimmer was undersized, or not in the full-up position, there can be serious damage to both dimmer and tool.

I experienced this first-hand not too long ago when a "carpenter" tried to plug a saw into a light fixture (using one of those screw in adaptors...even though a wall plug was nearby...go figure) controlled by a common 600 watt wall dimmer. Pretty spectacular! [Linked Image]

Mike (mamills)

BTW: I forgot to ask...is the black on the red wire electrical tape to cover up damaged insulation, or is it a burned spot? Pretty crummy installation of the box in the baseboard, too.

[This message has been edited by mamills (edited 06-07-2002).]

[This message has been edited by mamills (edited 06-07-2002).]

Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,236
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Uh, hint: There are two 12-3-G cables going into this box. There is only one wirenut.

The tape is doing much more than just covering scraped insulation...

[Linked Image]


-Virgil
Residential/Commercial Inspector
5 Star Inspections
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Virgil:
I wonder if they went to the trouble of stripping the insulation off the wires before twisting them together?

Wasn't there a thread about that some time ago? [Linked Image]

Mike (mamills)

Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,148
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Look at 404.14(E). This is a new rule in the '02 code, but the UL listing info has always said that you can't connect a dimmer to a receptacle, so even if you are using an older code, it would be a violation of 110.3(B)
Don


Don(resqcapt19)
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[Linked Image]

How do you like my new camera? A better pic of a different recept in the same house. Note the copper protruding from the taped splice on the black conductor, and the lack of bonding.

[Linked Image]

HVAC guys forgot their straps and the code on working clearances...

[Linked Image]

Close up of a switch box. Atleast these boxes are LXWOW's and not the 45ยบ Angled corner ones like in the recept pics. Still overcrowded by several conductors, though.

[Linked Image]

Outdoor Switch, Indoor Cover

[Linked Image]

Needs a deeper plaster ring... Anyone make plaster ring extensions?


-Virgil

Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,236
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So far, I've made note of 314.16, 110.14(B), 250.146, 250.148, 110.12, 404.14(E) (thanks, Don...) 314.20, 404.4, 312.1(A), and not shown in these pics, 210.8(A)(6) and 210.12.

Whew!

Any more?

[Linked Image]


-Virgil
Residential/Commercial Inspector
5 Star Inspections
Member IAEI
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,236
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BTW>>>

I've won a bid for $10.2K for one of these houses (#9, different section, about 2800 sq ft plus unfinished basement and porches, spec'd for metal boxes, lots of recessed cans, etc.). Joe M. and I start Monday on the rough-in and service.
[Linked Image from greenbrier.com]
In the meantime... we have to fix to atleast some extent the problems that I outline in my report (after the back charge procedures have been confirmed) hang fixtures that come in on #6 as well as Joe's landscape lights and traffic gates to do... Not to mention every other customer that wants this or that, most of them loyal from the beginning. I don't want to sound like I'm complaining... so please take this as "good news" for I've never been this covered up in work in my life! And I have the folks here at ECN to thank for making me the professional that I am, so that I can land gigs like this.

It's about time.

Wish me luck!

-Virgil

[This message has been edited by sparky66wv (edited 06-11-2002).]


-Virgil
Residential/Commercial Inspector
5 Star Inspections
Member IAEI
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 5,389
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Quote
Anyone make plaster ring extensions

These say 'cielings', may not be kosher for a wall hung sconce....

Quote
Wish me luck!

tradesmen get by on luck & skill, the latter serves you best in the long run.
sooooo...
good luck learning to juggle!
[Linked Image from dyslexia-inst.org.uk]

Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,236
Member
Hmmm... I was hoping more along the lines of galvanized extensions like an octagonal, but for the 3" size of the ring. Can I use 3" octagonal (or round) exetensions? (Listing concerns here...) there's nearly 2-1/2" of wood I have to protect, and I can't get to the 4x4 screws.

[Linked Image]


-Virgil
Residential/Commercial Inspector
5 Star Inspections
Member IAEI
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