ECN Forum Forums Photo Discussion Forums Photos for General Discussion Million Dollar Home, Wiring Not Worth a Cent

Virgil:
I cannot cite a code article covering this either (although I feel pretty sure that one exists somewhere). I do know that manufacturers of these dimmers recommend them for use only with permanently fixed non-inductive (excluding such things as electric motors and lamps using transformers in a power supply)loads. These dimmers cannot take the strain imposed by "hot patching" (which, in stage lighting parlance, refers to plugging a load circuit into a dimmer while the dimmer is hot...common in theatrical work, where dimmers are built heavier to accommodate this). If the dimmer were of sufficient ampacity to handle the power tool when it "loads down", and the dimmer were turned all the way up full, probably nothing would happen. If, however, the dimmer was undersized, or not in the full-up position, there can be serious damage to both dimmer and tool.

I experienced this first-hand not too long ago when a "carpenter" tried to plug a saw into a light fixture (using one of those screw in adaptors...even though a wall plug was nearby...go figure) controlled by a common 600 watt wall dimmer. Pretty spectacular!

Mike (mamills)

BTW: I forgot to ask...is the black on the red wire electrical tape to cover up damaged insulation, or is it a burned spot? Pretty crummy installation of the box in the baseboard, too.

[This message has been edited by mamills (edited 06-07-2002).]

[This message has been edited by mamills (edited 06-07-2002).]

Uh, hint: There are two 12-3-G cables going into this box. There is only one wirenut.

The tape is doing much more than just covering scraped insulation...

Virgil:
I wonder if they went to the trouble of stripping the insulation off the wires before twisting them together?

Wasn't there a thread about that some time ago?

Mike (mamills)

Look at 404.14(E). This is a new rule in the '02 code, but the UL listing info has always said that you can't connect a dimmer to a receptacle, so even if you are using an older code, it would be a violation of 110.3(B)
Don

So far, I've made note of 314.16, 110.14(B), 250.146, 250.148, 110.12, 404.14(E) (thanks, Don...) 314.20, 404.4, 312.1(A), and not shown in these pics, 210.8(A)(6) and 210.12.

Whew!

Any more?

BTW>>>

I've won a bid for $10.2K for one of these houses (#9, different section, about 2800 sq ft plus unfinished basement and porches, spec'd for metal boxes, lots of recessed cans, etc.). Joe M. and I start Monday on the rough-in and service.

In the meantime... we have to fix to atleast some extent the problems that I outline in my report (after the back charge procedures have been confirmed) hang fixtures that come in on #6 as well as Joe's landscape lights and traffic gates to do... Not to mention every other customer that wants this or that, most of them loyal from the beginning. I don't want to sound like I'm complaining... so please take this as "good news" for I've never been this covered up in work in my life! And I have the folks here at ECN to thank for making me the professional that I am, so that I can land gigs like this.

It's about time.

Wish me luck!

-Virgil

[This message has been edited by sparky66wv (edited 06-11-2002).]

These say 'cielings', may not be kosher for a wall hung sconce....


tradesmen get by on luck & skill, the latter serves you best in the long run.
sooooo...
good luck learning to juggle!

Hmmm... I was hoping more along the lines of galvanized extensions like an octagonal, but for the 3" size of the ring. Can I use 3" octagonal (or round) exetensions? (Listing concerns here...) there's nearly 2-1/2" of wood I have to protect, and I can't get to the 4x4 screws.