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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 449
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Electricmanscott said,"Sorry Fred but having to make all your own would be a HUGE timewaster." I have to disagree. I've had a lot of my life wasted on knockouts that didn't come out easily, came out too easily, interferred with where I needed a 1-1/4" or 2" hole and soforth. The spacing of 1/2" knockouts on factory panels isn't handy when using standard cable connectors either. They are usually too close together. Using my Maxis Marksman and a Greenlee Quick Draw I can prep a panel exactly how I want it in less than an hour and avoid frustration.
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Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 8,443 Likes: 3
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All I really think about in a panel (Switchboard) is that there is plenty of room inside it for getting your hands in there. And plenty of space for future expansion, it's amazing how many places you see over here where the Electrician that wired a place only allowed enough room for the circuits that "he" installed and turns down any further work on the installation after that.
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 92
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I've seen some panels with large bare lugs sticking out the bottom. Sometimes I tape over these. But there should be a plastic cover provided for safety reasons. I just installed a SquareD panel and it had attachment points for nylon TyRaps so you can secure your bundle of wires or even hold down the big cables so they don't spring out all over the blace like a busted gut. This is a good innovation. My biggest point is that the covers should be secured with studs instead of screws. That way, the studs will support the weight of the cover until you get the nuts on instead of trying to hold the heavy cover in place while using your second hand to line up the screw and your third hand to manipulate the screwdriver/gun. Siemans has the worst panels. They use those obsolete slotted screws. Also they use about six quick nuts. You get five of them started and then you hear a clunk as the last falls out of its hole and into the innards of the panel so you have to start all over. ~Peter
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 179
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The 'Perfect Panel' has a final sticker on it.
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Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 4,294
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Turn a couple of the cover screws around and thread them into the panel from the inside out. You now have studs for the cover to mount on. Use washers & hexnuts or wingnuts to hold it on.
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 40
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And to add to luckey's post when you find a stacked neutral bar that some idot has used up all the top holes first and you have to reach under to add a circut and the biggest one of all that they labeled the panel like 2nd fl nw bedroom NOT Billy's room
who the hell is billy lmao
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,044
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One feature that I really like and also hope that it becomes standard in the industry is Cutler Hammer's door in door feature. The cover has the usual door that gives you access to the breaker handles and the cover is also hinged so that you can access the inside of the enclosure without removing the cover. A real plus considering how heavy the cover can be on a large panelboard.
Few things are harder to put up with than the annoyance of a good example.
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 132
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Tom, This is an option on most company's panelboards, you only have to pay the extra money to have it. It's common in installations that get a lot of wiring changes. mike
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Posts: 61
Joined: August 2007
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