0 members (),
205
guests, and
12
robots. |
Key:
Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,213
Member
|
Pardon me if I don't see the issue here. Are not neutral and ground normally strapped together at the distribution panel? Since the genset is the power source, distribution panel and outlets all in one, wouldn't it make sense to strap them together there? Or should they be strapped together before the run to the outlet? Since the frame of the generator MIGHT be grounded, I would want a nice solid return path in the event that hot shorts to a metal chassis in a tool that I'm using. Better to trip the breaker than have 120V AC finding a convoluted path through my body, into the ground and back to the genset... Correct my amateur self if I'm wrong. I completely agree, there is no problem here, in fact the neutral MUST be strapped to ground per code, and this is as good a place as any for the manufacturer to do so. Big commercial generators do the exact same thing, just with a larger wire. Of course, modern generators of this sort should be GFCI protected. The GFCI would work just fine even without any solid bonding to ground. If the generator is insulated and there is a ground fault somewhere, no current flows because the "hot" wire is now the only grounded point in the system, and the ground/neutral are now rotating 120V above ground. Of course, it's highly unlikely that the hot will be grounded and ground not intentionally or incidentally grounded at some point. This is why the ground/neutral bond must be made on the line side of the GFCI circuit. If it's a very weak incidental ground, like the grounded gen rails are sitting on a concrete slab, you still might not get the 5ma required to trip the GFCI, but then, if you're not getting 5ma, then it's not really an issue, is it?
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,498
Member
|
It is like an IT system - one ground fault and you're fine because you just grounded one leg of the generator like in house wiring. If you get two ground faults then things get nasty.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7
New Member
|
So then its ok for 20 amps to flow from neutral thru tab into ground screw into outlet body.........the ONLY connecting to the commen ground/neutral on this generator is the plate screw into the frame... Doesnt seem right to me
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 5,445 Likes: 3
Cat Servant Member
|
I think you have the flow backwards.
There's a neutral wire back to where the generator makes the electricity; what's lacking is the ground wire. So, only current that has energized the frame will use that tab, to return to the system.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7
New Member
|
no reno this is my picture there was NO neutral wire..the tab was the "neutral wire"
On the new outlet I ran a wire from the commen ground/neutral block and ran a green wire from the outlet to the generator frame.
this seems a little bit safer to me
Last edited by farmANhvacguy; 11/10/09 04:20 AM.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 5,445 Likes: 3
Cat Servant Member
|
OK, if that's the case, I stand corrected ... and I don't like the design either.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 404
Member
|
So, there was only a hot connection, and neutral/ground through the generator frame?
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 144
Member
|
do we have a generator model, i want to go look up a wiring diagram...
-Joe “then we'll glue em' then screw em'” -Tom Silva TOH
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 939
Member
|
I am pretty sure the OP mention to me some time back it is a WINCO pto generator I don't recall what KW size it is but I am pretty sure it is 15 KW size but I will let the OP give the correct infomation here. Merci,Marc
Pas de problme,il marche n'est-ce pas?"(No problem, it works doesn't it?)
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 10
Member
|
No need for a ground to trip a GFI, as it simply measures the current going thru the hot, and compares to neutral. If they're not the same, GFI trips, aggravates user. XD
|
|
|
Posts: 57
Joined: August 2003
|
|
|
|