ECN Forum Forums Photo Discussion Forums Violation Photo Forum How Hard Can Wiring Be?

I've got it! Looks like this guy new that he was creating a death trap, so might as well make sure that the egc is nice and snug. The tighter I twist, the lower the impeadance, thus bettering the odds of the cb's tripping out quicker, and giving Granny a better chance to survive!

Well it turns out the inspector wouldn't even inspect the job because they didn't have the panel mounted, the ground rod driven, or the gas and water bond in. So now they want me to do the sub feed, gas & water bond, and the ground rod. I told them i don't want any connection to the job. FYI the reason for the all #12 wiring is because the architect had it as a note on the drawings(that way the wire can burn longer before the breaker trips) I don't know if you guys noticed but in pic#2 if you look close you can see that they used 1/2 driven nails and bent them over to use as romex staples. When my electrician friends come over I give them the worlds worst wiring job tour.

Yea, but thats how the book said to do it Mr Inspector, you're just too picky. Love it when someone whats you to "clean up" someone elses work. One thing scrap copper is at a premium, maybe some will steal it.

How hard can wiring be? Pretty ----ed hard if you don't know what you're doing. i.e: It took me 12 hours to wire my first traffic light, two years ago. Now it takes me 2 hours tops, 1 hour usually. And it takes me less time, every time.

Apparently, this guy just followed "1-2-3" until he could turn on the breakers and not smell smoke. And BTW, what's with all 12/3 NM?


That reminds me, I gotta go in the crawlspace and cut out some old abandoned A/C cables before the copper price drops.
Ian A.

[This message has been edited by Theelectrikid (edited 12-10-2006).]

In defense of the Wiring 1-2-3 books, they certainly don't tell you that this is how you perform an installation.

The problem with these how-to books is that they rely on the reader's common sense and mechanical aptitude; both of which are sorely lacking in this instance.

I know for sure these books don't tell you to crack off the cable-clamp tabs off a plastic switch-box.

Well buying a book is one thing, reading it is another.

When I wired my addition I bought one of those books. Not because I didn't know what I was doing but I wanted to make sure I followed new codes. I'm not an electrician (I'm a dreaded EE) so I'm not up on all the latest changes - like distance from the floor, switch height, minimum outlet count per sq ft, etc.

Well my book, I think its by Stanley, was very specific about many things missed above.

> at least a quater inch of jacket inside the box

> Clamping the cable within 4in of the box.

> no more than two cables through a single hole.

> rough requires all grounds and neutrals connected as practical as can be.

BTW, I ran a lot of 12/3 as well on lighting circuits. If you want to break up the switching later or install something unswitched at the end of the leg, 12/3 saves your butt!

[This message has been edited by Gus99 (edited 07-13-2006).]

I will occasionally pickup a book that heavily references the code, I chucked the other books last year. Yet I still find errors in these books (at least what I think are errors), "If extending an old, ungrounded circuit, grab the ground from a water pipe." I always thought the cold water pipe wasn't an electrode past the first five feet?

Ian A.

What they suggest was once an approved method for making a ground on an ungrounded system. While we don't do it that way any more, the method can provide an effictive ground.

Looks like Stanley is another misquoter. NM must be secured within 12" of the box. It's been that way for more than 65 yrs.

I've found a very good book for NEC info is the NEC.

When I need to help people out with projects, I reference the IRC (resi). How does that compare (electric) with the NEC? And does one trump the other?