Greg,
I thought there was a UL listing requirement change in 2003 that required all new GFCI's to utilize the Smart Lock design, which would not pass voltage if an internal malfunction was detected or if the device was reverse wired during initial installation?
I can remember an approximate 50% price hike for GFCI receptacles right at the time this change was introduced.
Although... I've still seen a couple of blown Smart Lock GFCI's and blank face devices that passed voltage after they were completely fried, so I'm sure this design isn't 100% effective, but it does generally seem to work in most cases that I've come across.
The only thing that bothers me about requiring GFCI receptacles to be "readily accessible" is that I can already see one inspector's interpretation that the entire receptacle must be able to be accessed for service and another one that will say you only need to be able to visually inspect and reach the test/reset buttons.
I'm wondering about what happens with factory installed GFCI's located below hot tubs in WP control panel enclosures or a GFCI receptacle located under a whirlpool tub with the removable covers held on with the Velcro tape?
Same thing with a GFCI receptacle located behind a washer or gas dryer in a basement or bathroom laundry closet.
We've all had those trouble calls where the outside receptacles don't work and we end up tracing the circuit and finding the tripped GFCI receptacle located in the inside hallway, behind the three legged table with the Tiffany lamp on it, or behind the 7-foot tall entertainment center in the living room, but I'd hate to see a few cases of installer stupidity be the main reason for a rule change like this.
