Hello W.U.,
Thanks for the comments, and I'm sorry it took me so long to reply to your post!
You probably missed it buried in all the other verbage above, but the generator set isn't permanently installed. It's on wheels, and we unload it and set it up 25 feet away. There's no need for automatic transfer. If it were built in, I would probably do as you suggest.
All of the existing wiring is in FMC with solid branch-circuit conductors, so it didn't surprise me to find a grounding conductor broken off at a crimp ferrule. I've only seen one area where rub-through might occur, but that was due to over-fill of a box. It's already been strongly suggested by another team member that we replace the solid conductors with stranded, and I'll count yours as another vote in favor!
The neutral bar is definitely isolated from ground, no worries.
What's been bugging me is that the trailer is set up as 120/240, but our shore power is a TT-30R (120V 30A). I don't like the idea of the shore power getting switched onto both main breaker phases because the 30A cord set isn't protected by the 60A sum of the two poles. I'd require some kind of "extra" 30-amp fuse or breaker in series with the cord set.
Instead, my inclination is to set everything up as 120V only, with a recessed L5-30P to attach ONE of two 10/3 cord sets: one having an L5-30P cap to the genset, or a shore-power cord with a TT-30P molded plug. This arrangement doesn't deliver as much potential total power as the 120/240 arrangement when running from the generator, but it does deliver the same power in both conditions. We don't have any 240-volt appliances, tools or equipment.
The generator has a "120-240" switch that places the windings in parallel for 120V-only or in series for 120/240. I like the idea of switching it to the 120V-only configuration, which gives me a big "pool" of 120V power for the trailer and other equipment, with the advantage of eliminating the concern for phase balancing.
Is there another approach I should consider? Thanks again.
Regards,
John
