411.4 Locations Not Permitted. Lighting systems operating at 30 volts or less shall not be installed (1) where concealed or extended through a building wall, unless using a wiring method specified in Chapter 3, ..... The installation requirements of 411.4 recognize that shock and fire hazards still exist, even with low-voltage systems.
How would you do this in a chapter 3 wiring method in a type 1 TOC? Conduit, MC, Flex... Where would the connections be made? Would chopping off the little connectors that on them invalidate it's listing? (UL 153) Would any splices you made be required to be in a box?
[This message has been edited by e57 (edited 07-01-2005).]
Mark Heller "Well - I oughta....." -Jackie Gleason
I don’t think the installation shown violates 411.4 since the wiring is not run inside the building walls. I don’t consider the back of the cabinet part of the building. Unfortunately this type of installation would only work with Euro style of cabinets since most American built cabinets don’t have dead space behind the back. I’m not sure about voiding the UL listing if the connectors are cut off. I believe the transformers provided are class 2 supplies so I don’t know any requirements that would require boxes at connection points.
For what its worth I have installed many Hera pucks and have never had a problem. They are pricey but are good quality. I think the reason many don’t like pucks is that the pucks they have used are garbage.
[This message has been edited by caselec (edited 07-01-2005).]
#94035 - 07/02/0511:09 AMRe: What do you think about this installation?
I think the drawing is for "new install" of cabinets. It shows adding a firring strip to the top and bottom of the wall cabinets. The optional install in existing cabinets shows the cabinet body and shelves being drilled to accept the wiring. Either way, it is not inside the wall.
#94036 - 07/02/0501:43 PMRe: What do you think about this installation?
Thats it... Solar you hit the nail on the head, it's "concealed". However SF Inspectors are absolutely neurotic about LV lighting. I think it was due to the huge swell of them during the dot com days here. Many were poorly made, and poorly installed. I feel for them, I really do. As I get to see, and pull out some of the things they missed over the years.
*Lamp cord stripped of the plug, and stuffed in a J-box with a romex connector. Making use of Zip Cord as perminent wiring.
*Inaccessable slpices with "landscraping" style Malibu wiring.
*Unprotected secondarys on buck and boost style transformers.
*Due to the high heat nature of the fixtures, scorched cabinetry, and short lived self destruction of the fixtures themselves. And the fires they have had when these are installed INSIDE cabinets, or in front of them where a door can be left open under one. I believe some one sued the city of an inspected job that caught fire years ago.
*Then there are cabinet makers who prefer to install themselves, and bury the whole mess, including the receptical they are fed from in a soffit, accessable only by removing finish nails and biscuits.
I swear I cringe everytime I hear the words "Puck Lights", or "Chase". Like in this answer after I ask, "What are these lights here on the plans? I dont have them in our bid." A-"Oh those are puck lights, the cabinet maker is going to put those in chase above the cabinets and you just give him a switched outlet above the uppers... And then he's going to cover it with crown moulding." Thats where I get told by the boss to fullfill my role as Field Supervisor and play "Bad Cop", and have to write up a laundry list of the possible code violations, and hassle we could get nailed with at the final of the job. I then get labled by the GC, and Designer as the "Electrial A-hole".
Which goes a little like this...
All fixtures must have documentation that they are listed to be recessed or mounted on wood or combustible material, and / or be thermally protected.
All concealed wiring must be in NEC Chapter 3 wiring methods suitable for this building type (Type 1), in this case Conduit, MC, or Flex.
All receptacles, transformers, connections and slices must remain accessible without the use of tools that will disturb, or require the removal of finish materials. Preferably in an access panel, or junction box.
All fixtures and transformers must be from the same manufacturer and be components of the same listing for use with each other.
All transformers must be clearly marked and have documentation on site at electrical final that they have short-circuit, and over-load protection. If on dimmers, they must be marked "Dimmable".
We must make it clear that many Electrical Inspectors in this area will be highly critical of this particular type of lighting, as many see it as a violation of the listing on many of these products to be installed in a permanent manner. (UL 153 Portable Cabinet Luminaires)
Yeah, pretty harsh for something we're not even installing.
[This message has been edited by e57 (edited 07-03-2005).]
Mark Heller "Well - I oughta....." -Jackie Gleason
#94038 - 07/03/0506:16 AMRe: What do you think about this installation?
Always refer to the installation instructions and markings on the product to identify what installations and applications for which the light was Listed. The instructions will identify if the light was intended for use in an open or closed cabinet and proper spacing of the lights and installation into or under shelves. With out the installation instructions compliance with NEC Section 110.3(B) cannot be determined. These products are not intended for installation in recessed walls or ceilings, or in permanently installed cabinets where the wiring is concealed or passed through openings in the structure. Portable cabinet luminaires have been evaluated for mounting in accordance with the clearances marked on the product.
I,m assuming Portable cabinet luminaires meaning puck lights. I search UL site for puck and found meeting document in 2003.
So if a cabinet maker supplies the puck lights with no installation instuctions you can't verify the proper installation of product. Permantly installed cabinets would include kitchen cabinets screwed to walls. They say not to be used in recess walls, ceilings, and permanent cabinets running through walls. Limiting the use of light supplied zip cord. No fishing. I would worry about false UL labels and instructions supplied by product makers. Plus if you want to play bad cop just ask for installation instructions. I documented, signed by homeowner, that I only supplied uppercabinet receptacle to switch. Knowing, because they told me, how they where going to BUTCHER the cabinets for puck lights. I didn't want anything to do with that installation. There is alot of heat generated with these lights and mixing with wood would be a hazard.
#94040 - 07/03/0502:02 PMRe: What do you think about this installation?
You guys got me to thinking here, and I just thought of a really clean way to install hardwired U/C lights:
Use plain-vanilla Wiremold. Connect to the 1/2" knockouts using Wiremold's B8I transition fittings. You end up with an installation that's much neater-looking (IMHO) than MC or NM.
Edited to add: I'm referring here to the portion that's underneath the cabinets, not wiring that's behind cabinets or inside walls. For that, use whatever your favorite method is, and either run it to the first light, or transition to Wiremold when you come out of the wall. Then run Wiremold between all the lights in a run.
[This message has been edited by SolarPowered (edited 07-03-2005).]