Mustang...How will you run the wiring to the post lights and the wiring to the pool lights?
I would run the post lights seperate from the pool shed sub panel with 14-2 UF wire and then a switch loop from the sub panel to the location of the switch.
Then I would run the branch circuit wiring in RNC to the pool lights from the sub panel and again run the switch loop from the sub panel to the location of the switch.
You see, the wiring method will be determined by a number of considerations as to how the whole project is designed.
Is there a pool shed? Is there a sub panel in the pool shed. Where will the switches be located for the lighting? What type of pool lighting are you installing?
I think you could pigtail the wiring in the panel and hit the same breaker if you are trying to save on the expence of GFCI breakers.
Pool lighting 12 volts or less does't require GFCI protection and the post lights installed more than 10 feet from the inside wall of the pool don't require GFCI protection if proper depths are maintained for each wiring method.
Also most "hard wired" pool pumps don't require GFCI protection.
Of coarse the code is a minimum standard and I would still GFCI protect the posts,pump and lights myself.
Re: Pool Area Lighting#90897 12/17/0404:35 PM12/17/0404:35 PM
I tailed my required deck receptacle off the pool light circuit with no problems from Lee County. I can't see how lights would be. Just be sure it is after the pool light J box so your EGC is unspliced to there. Run it all in #12 in pipe to avoid any problems with that.
Re: Pool Area Lighting#90898 12/17/0406:30 PM12/17/0406:30 PM
Hi, Well this is a case of "pool guy electric co" contracting out electrical work. They installed a #8 STRANDED to two underwater lights and all the metal parts (sure they did). They ran 2 3/4" conduits near where I placed a 2 gang fs box with a switch loop for the 4 post lights that were part of my job. It looks as if they are planning to use my fs box.
The pool grounding and the underwater lights were not my job.
I did install a sub panel at the pump pad using 1" pvc from a sub panel i recently mounted on the side of the home for a hot tub. I used #4 THWN to feed the 125A panel. It is protected by a 50A breaker. I did this for future expansion purposes, the breaker can be upsized if needed. I used a #8 ground from the first sub to the new panel at the pump pad.
I hardwired the 240 VAC pump with NO GFCI. I hardwired the 240 VAC HEATER UNIT with no GFCI. I used nm liquidtite for this stuff..I placed a 2 gang outlet on the back of the panel with a 20A breaker feeding a GFCI and a slave in it.
i ran a 3/4" pvc conduit from the panel to the fs box then from the panel to the 4 post lights. The post lights also have 3 outlets. I ran 1/2" pvc to all the post lights then back to the panel. All this is protected by a 15A GFCI breaker and I used #14 THWN for these lights.
What it boils down to is I KNOW the POOL guy will bug onto my lighting/outlet circuit to feed his underwater lights. I was not asked to run him a circuit. He has no circuit over where his switch is supposed to be other than my 15A #14 wire ckt. I did not do this intentionally it just worked out that way.
I was not paid to do any of that work.
That is why I was wondering.
Thanks for the info.
[This message has been edited by mustangelectric (edited 12-17-2004).]
Electricity has no respect for ignorance!
Re: Pool Area Lighting#90899 12/17/0407:05 PM12/17/0407:05 PM