But have had a "No-dog". (a few times, experimented with it, lost it.) And right now have a Greenlee with a simular condiut attacthment, which I don't use. I like it because it is a decent size torpedo level.
Anyway, question to you all is: Are they of any real use to bend conduit? Does anyone use these effectively using hand benders?
Or is it me? I find that these levels attatched to a coduit being bent, could only work if you also had a level on your bender to match it up to. Right? I seem to make more dog-legs with, than without it. Only time it works right, is with a fixed hydralic bender.
Mark Heller "Well - I oughta....." -Jackie Gleason
I have a No-Dog that I use, but just on rigid or large pipe, mostly for multi-shot bends or occasionally for parallel saddles and offsets if the work is going to show. When it's going to be seen and it has to match in appearance I put the dog on. I also use the travel method for making matched bends. (Not for hand bends) Travel method description: When you bend any angle the travel distance is equal to the # of degrees and so you can calculate inches of travel per degree (usually a fraction of an inch per degree). To use the travel method, pick (or create) a fixed point on the bender about a foot back from the back of the shoe. After the conduit is loaded into the bender and ready to bend, place a mark at the fixed point. Make the bend and before you release the pressure make a second mark on the conduit at the fixed point. When you take the piece out of the bend use a protractor to measure the exact angle and then measure the distance between the 2 marks. That distance is proportional to the number of degrees of the bend. If your first mark winds up in the bend and is no longer on the straight portion of the pipe then you need to pick a “fixed point” farther back from the shoe. I have attached a piece of all-thread to a bender with a #6 wire arm at the end that I could swing into position so that it lays on the top of the conduit while I make the mark. So let’s say you bend a 1” and get 11 inches of travel in an 89 degree bend, that’s about 8 degrees of bend for each inch of travel or 0.124” per degree. So a 30 degree bend would be 30* 0.124 or 3.7 inches. If you want to bend a 30 degree offset, lay out the offset and load the conduit into the bender. Make a mark at the “Fixed point” and make another mark 3.7” back. Bend the conduit until the second mark travels to the fixed point. Your bend should be 30 degrees, and every bend you make using the same method with 3.7” will be exactly the same as every other bend. Most of the time when you make a bend it isn’t exactly the number of degrees you were trying for and you have to massage the piece to your liking. With the travel method you will have very little need to add additional work to the piece. Yes it takes a bit longer but if the work is going to show then it is worth ever bit of that extra effort.
[This message has been edited by Ray97502 (edited 08-01-2005).]
If you spend all day running multiple runs of pipe, a "no-dog" AND a protractor are must have tools. If you are running the occasional pipe...good luck. After running a few thousand feet of 4" RGS, 3/4" EMT is a joke.