Hello folks, I have a commercial toaster. Name plate rating: 208V Singlephase 27 Amps Running amps 28.5 Amps
If i put a breaker rated at 30 Amps it will break because the toaster runs 11 hours a day. If I go 125% of the rating then the breaker goes to 35Amps. But the lead wires from the toaster are only 10AWG.
What i have on there now is SO cord with 30Amp twistlock receptacle and 30Amp twistlock plug.
I can only reccomend SO cord and a plug if the toaster is often moved around. If that is the case, you will want to upgrade to 8/3 SO. You'll also want to use a 40 amp connector into a receptacle that is rated to disconnect under load- most of your NEMA-pattern receptacles are not. Look into such things that are marketed for motors.
It is more likely that the toaster doesn't move around very much. It would be more common that it would be wired to a disconnect switch using a metal-lined liquid-tight flex, containing #8 wires.
One exception: it is permitted to use whatever type of cord & plug that the unit came with when manufactured. I suggest looking at the makers' web site to see if there are any reccomendations.
Re: Am I right or not?#38934 06/06/0401:30 PM06/06/0401:30 PM
the unit does not come with cord.(according to the owner). Here is what happened:
The original cord was burnt due to loose connection. Then i come in and replace it with a 6/3 range cord to match the existing 50Amp wall plug. Then the unit goes out for cleaning and the cleaning/repair shop tells the owner that is the wrong dryer cord.(yes they said it was a dryer cord). So they replaced the cord with a SO 10/3 with a 30amp twistlock plug. So i had to replace the existing 50Amp wall receptacle with a 30Amp receptacle to match the cord end that was put on by the repair shop.
So i do not know who is right and can not find the manufacturer's website so i can download some instructions.
What does UL say about it. Would it void UL listing I wouldn't touch the appliance. If its commercial does it have a max fuse size listed, is the SO factory. I would look at the nameplate and factory cord size. Maybe up the feeder size after calculating the length of run but still keep the 30a brk recept and factory cord. Why use 125% is it there an inductive load to?If it's got a 30a line cord and trips a 30a brk it is a sign that there’s something wrong like low volts or leakage to ground(which can kill) by not tripping a 40a brk near as fast as a 30a if at all which brings me back to the UL question. I always Check for ground potential (chassis to chassis) with all metal objects in reach of my kitchen installations
Re: Am I right or not?#38939 06/06/0405:19 PM06/06/0405:19 PM