The light inside a new pool is low voltage, correct? I worked on an older pool today that was 120v but GFI protected. Is there anything hard about changing the bulb? Can it be done without draining the water down? Done most everything electrical.. except pools.
The Golden Rule - "The man with the gold makes the rule"
About 30 years ago low voltage swimming pool lights were pretty standard but at least in my area all swimming pools now have 120 volt lights.
There should be a retaining screw that holds the light into the forming shell. After the screw is removed there should be enough cord coiled up behind the light to allow you bring it up to the pool deck.
Re: Pool Wiring#24668 04/18/0301:32 AM04/18/0301:32 AM
Don't turn the light on while it is out of the water to test the new Bulb, It will burn out very quickly (water usually cools it)
Replace the Gasket if you can. These light housings often leak after they are opened up and it only takes a very small amount of water getting inside to trip the GFCI. Literally a drop or drops. Ask the people at the pool supply place where you buy the Bulb the best way to open and reseal the unit.
BTW, I've had problems where these housings leaked within a day or days and had to come back again. Now, I wouldn't try to replace a bulb anymore. I'd buy a new fixture that's factory sealed with the Bulb inside. No callbacks that way.
99% of the lights I've seen have been 120v with 300w or 500w Bulbs inside. I haven't seen a low-voltage fixture in many years.
[This message has been edited by Bill Addiss (edited 04-18-2003).]
Re: Pool Wiring#24669 04/18/0305:58 AM04/18/0305:58 AM