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#203653 - 10/17/11 10:50 PM Metal Buildings  
sudsy4  Offline
Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 32
Elizabeth,PA USA
Information, suggestions on installations in metal ( block to 4 ft then metal to 30 ft) will be appreciated. I have 30 yrs experience in commercial/ industrial construction but not metal buildings. Pictures would be very useful.
Thanks for any help anyone can provide.

Bill


Bill

Work Gear for Electricians and the Trades

#203654 - 10/17/11 11:12 PM Re: Metal Buildings [Re: sudsy4]  
gfretwell  Offline


Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 9,069
Estero,Fl,usa
Sounds like a regular EMT job to me. That is what I see everywhere.


Greg Fretwell

#203655 - 10/17/11 11:28 PM Re: Metal Buildings [Re: sudsy4]  
Tesla  Offline
Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,273
Sacramento, CA
Get a Hilti for any direct mountings to heavy steel.

Typically you'll have Z channels in the horizontal. They make for natural EMT racks.

Be wary of 1/2" EMT -- somehow extra circuits always pop-up at the last moment.

Such jobs go much quicker if 3/4" EMT is the smallest EMT you employ.


Tesla

#203656 - 10/17/11 11:30 PM Re: Metal Buildings [Re: sudsy4]  
wire_twister  Offline
Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 265
Georgia USA
Last metal building I did was an auto repair shop. Ran a 4 inch wireway down the center and brought all the branch circuits out of it. Worse part is the exit from the trough, either end up using a cornering ell, or bending back to back 90s with the second one being overbent to match the slope of the roof. One hole straps work well for pipes going perpindicular to the ceiling joists, paralell runs usually end up on the sides of the beams, with one hole straps for support. Tek screws are good for the thin steel, the heavier beams have to be predrilled to prevent breaking the screws.


Jimmy

Life is tough, Life is tougher when you are stupid

#203658 - 10/18/11 12:49 PM Re: Metal Buildings [Re: sudsy4]  
renosteinke  Offline
Cat Servant
Member
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 5,316
Blue Collar Country
Metal buildings ... both a blessing and a curse.

"Minor" pipe runs can be done using beam clamps and Mineralacs. You'll still need to mind your bends, as the saddles around the uprights and doors add up.

Going vertical -if you're strict about it- means you first need to build a secondary support, as the Z-purlins are usually more than 10ft. apart.

You WILL need some horizontal runs across the ceiling. Again, the structural steel is far more than 10ft. apart; 25ft. is common. So .... cut to the chase ... you WILL need to construct a proper trapeze and hang it from the Z-purlins up there. Since 'extra' pipes keep appearing, design it plenty big.

Where you do need to mount to the sheet metal 'skin,' your best bet is the old-fashioned toggle screw.

As a 'design note,' plan on having a junction box at every column; sooner or later someone will need something there.

While it's a pipe-bending nightmare, try to place your receptacles between the flanges of the I-beams. That's the only way to protect them from forklifts, etc.


#203670 - 10/18/11 11:15 PM Re: Metal Buildings [Re: renosteinke]  
sudsy4  Offline
Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 32
Elizabeth,PA USA
Thanks for info, will be asking further help I'm sure. Still in a mudd hole waiting on the Brikies at this point in the game. Biggest concern at moment is transition from block walls (flush mount in the block ) to the metal walls.


Bill


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