I have to wire an effluent pump for a septic system next week.Does anyone have experience with these? What is the best, most code code compliant way to do this.I have done these before but there seems to be a difference of opinion among ahj's as to what is correct. any suggestions as to what code sections would apply?
Weighted float switches on SO cord is acceptable. In fact that is all I've seen around here. Nasty job! If you're using multiple pumps, I use an alternating relay to switch pumps every time. For instance if you've got two pumps, the longest switch will turn on the relay which brings in a pump. If one pump can't keep up, then the next longest switch will bring the second. If they can't keep up the next switch will bring in a alarm of some type. Hope this helps.
The pumps that we have always used have float already attached and have a cord and plug. Some ahj's will allow a recep. mounted in the pump chamber and the whole thing covered with dirt. Some won't allow this, and require the recep/cords to be accesible. This installation will not be inspected except by health dept. for proper operation of the alarm. my question is which way is correct?
ga.sparky56, you've a sore topic for me here,as i've gone toe to toe with a few excavators, architects and home owners on this.
( I refuse to service them unless i wire them MY way..)
For the most part, you'll note the larger municipal systems have external controls and disco's, however the common residential 2 float system ( and one alarm float) apparently has not subscribed to this techology as yet....
They come with the motor, long S cord ending in a molded male cord cap, which is then supposivley to plug into the ball float "feed thru" cord cap, assuming a 2" snag of cord caps that will rarely fit inside a bubble cover.
Even if you are lucky enough to do this, the methane with rot practically any al box on the market, not to mention any connections, buble cover nonwithstanding.....
The code? 430.102 ( note the 02' crackdown) The manufacturer assumes the male cord cap & receptacle INSIDE the effluent container to be the motor disco.......it simply is a poor design, take it from a sparky who has navigated enough septic systems here.
The fix? Use a Carlon # E970CE round box w/ 4 3/4" openings, get yourself 3--Carlon H978E strain relief connectors and pipe 3/4" pvc directly out the tank to an FS box.
There is usually a vent close by to secure a 2x6 PT pedstal to.
Make all the cords ( motor, ball, alarm) into the E970CE, strip the cords at that point and push them all up into the FS box.
( dux seal the 3/4" shut @ the FS box for extra credit.....)
There are then NO terminations within the tank to go bad, or IMHO, to need check on.
I then apply a Carlon E98TSC switch cover that is lockable to the FS box & feed all back to the dwelling.
Sparky, thanks a lot for the info. I too have gone a few rounds with gc's and homeowners on this subject.I just have never come up with a good system, or had been required to do anything in particular on a consistent basis. I have replaced a few old ones, everything in the tank was rotten after about 6 or 8 years.Yours sounds like the best system i've heard of.
Been on one job with sparky where he installed the system he desribes. After listening to what he had went through in the past, and looking how he came up with this method, I wouldn't do it any other way. I especially like the part where he tells the GC or whoever else is involved to take a hike(in so many words)if they argue with his method. Determination and experience prevails, who wants to crawl into a shit pit to fix anything.
Wirenutt, went to look at this house the other day,there was a piece of 12-2 uf sticking out of the ground about 2ft.this was about 10ft from the basement wall. The gc says "Oh we already ran your wire for you". Then we go into the basement and lo and behold, stubbed up through the bottom plate was a piec of 3/4 pvc (waterline of course) and of course there is a3/4 water 90 then a short piece of 3/4 stubbed out under the slab. Then he slaps me on the back and says (See! we take care of you).
yes GlennH ...... the manufacturer has a warranty;
This warranty does not apply to: (a) damage due to lightning or conditions beyond the control of SJE-Rhombus; (b) defects or malfunctions resulting from units not installed, operated, or maintained in accordance with instructions provided, applicable local codes, ordinances, or accepted trade practices; (c) failures resulting from abuse, misuse, accident, or negligence; or (d) units repaired and/or modified without prior authorization from SJE-Rhombus.