Being a commercial electrician, only, I'd like some feedback as to how best to remove it for repair or replacement.
In particular, in residential work is it normal for this to be hard wired with a whip or plug connected?
I've already got the oven loose in the hole -- but would like some advice before jerking it out 'blind.'
As it stands, it is NOT apparent how this oven is hooked up. The manual does not provide any rear-view illustration nor hook-up commentary. Instead the pitch is to call for their service fleet -- I'd rather not.
Is there an access or drawer under the oven? Open/pull that out and see if there is a plug behind there. A lot of times these are just on a greenfield whip hardwired to a 1900 box. It almost takes 2 people to get one out to work on it. I wouldn't even start taking the screws out until I tripped the breaker ... but you know that.
I don't know what its like in the US but I a pretty sure here in Canada there has to be replacement parts available for at least 7 years after the model was last made.
If its the board it's not going to be cheap.
I wonder if heat is building up in the area around the oven and causing the board to act up. Maybe a louvered vent at the top of the cavity would help dissipate the heat out of the cabinet its in and prevent the new board from an early end of life.
The first question is what is it not doing? Could this just be a bad element? If this is the old style thing with dials on it, there is not much to go bad. If it is a new touch pad there is not much to go wrong either but it is the $200 board.
BTW I am looking for a 24" old style wall oven with no joy so far. I am even willing to swap my old style Whirlpool control panel over to a newer one with a fried board if it would fit in the can.
What seems to be the issue? If its got a digital clock and electronic controls be ready to have *fun*.
If the heating element and wiring continuity checks pass, move onto the control board. The most common issues are cold solder joints and faulty electrolytic capacitors. The electrolytics can be tested just like big motor start/run caps. Be on the lookout for a bulged/blown cap (they usually bulge at the top) and pay attention to the leads...if they have turned green, the cap has a slow electrolyte leak and needs to be changed.
Of course, look for any obvious arcing or burned traces. Most of the control boards passed full element current through the circuit board traces where the relays are soldered in place. Often a solder joint at the relay or terminal will fail. This usually makes a mess as far as arc damage goes but it can be fixed. Remove all burnt solder and clean with an alcohol based solvent before re-soldering. Circuit traces are best repaired using wire as wide as the trace.
About the only things that require total control board replacement are a failure of the custom display module (usually a vacuum fluorescent unit, failures are *rare*) or a fried microcontroller, which of course stores the brains of the unit and is unique to your model.
Blown triacs and diodes are usually substitutable with similar units. The control transformer, usually 12-24VAC output is easily substituted as well.