Here is what it looked like before the panel was set. Disclaimer: Picture is from the house about 5-6 feet away but looks the same as the house in question.



100A UG service w/ 3" EMT coupling used to transition from PVC to EMT.



Another view.



PG&E requires 3" conduit for UG service & as one can see by the meter being set the temp service passed.

Do these photos show violations or not ?

My personal option IMO it don't look like it but as long the EMT is properly bonded I don't see the issue however the set screw fitting I do not know if they will allow like that in that fashion as you show us the photo of that.

I am aware with the 3 inch termail adaptor is pretty big and it will not fit in the 2X4 standard wall cavity without leaving a budge or sticking it out a bit.

{ the modern North Americia 2X4 real size is 1.5 inch thick and 3.5 inch wide }

I Don't know what that person intend to do with that one but if it was me I will run PVC all the way up to the all in one box if the conduit is long enough.

Merci,Marc

The only question I would have is the size of the EGC for the uffer.

6 AWG? It's a 100A service.

According to the NEC no. According to PG&E yes. Otherwise PG&E would not have set your meter and the building inspector gave you a tag for temp power.

I did not know that an EMT coupling fit on PVC!

That said, the EMT cplg on PVC is not an approved use of an EMT cplg. The clamp on the rebar looks like a pipe clamp, and not an approved connector. The stub-up rebar is not acceptable here.

Our POCO would not accept the meter recessed within the wall, nor would they accept the unmetered service conductors within the wall.

I guess that padding out the wall to 2x6 framing would not have been an option?

That semi-flush panel is the norm in CA, & stubbing out the rebar is also normal here. The use of that coupling is why I took the picture & posted it don't like it as one can see the meter was set so it was inspected & "passed" inspection. BTW at the time of this post the HVAC installers & the plumbers at work, as soon as they start the rough wiring there should be more doozy's to come...

Edit: The houses are prob. going to be stucco, so styrofoam is usually used so they use 2X4 const. instead of 2X6's.

Why the change over in the first place? Brain fart?

John { Hotline }

As far for 3 inch PVC , EMT , Ridge conduits the outside diamiter is the same so it will work either way.

As I did one with EMT to Ridge conduit with compression coupling and I have no issue using that one however make sure keep the inside the conduit deburred good.

I know as above posted as I mention I don't see major issue beside the termail adpator is not there and not using proper coupling due the width of wall per photo due it is a 2X4 wall if it was 2X6 then it will have no issue using proper TA on it.

I am not sure either you or other person mention about the EGC clamp they should used a acorn clamp on the rebar.

{ I know in state of wisconsin do allow rebar used for EGC for new construction only not with addtion building unless you have steel structure. in France it kinda toss up with it }

Merci,Marc

I believe they also need an access panel in the wall to get to the connection, (the one that should be an acorn type,) at the rebar sticking up. 250.68 (A) the exception is only for an encased or buried connection. The rebar is buried etc. , but the connection is not. Access required.
Alan

Yes Alan, if the Ufer connection is not buried in the concrete it must remain accessible. Typically they put in a ring over a hole in the wall with a 4" cover.
This is an old picture but it shows the typical Florida Ufer.

http://gfretwell.com/electrical/ufer.jpg

They will TapCon a 4" mud ring on the wall and the stucco guy will float it up level to the cover.

It's normal here for a ring to be used to access it.

Yes, there are differences from coast to coast. BTW, access is required to a GEC connection over/up here also, with basically the same methods as previously described.

There has been a lot of debate about whether the rebar stub out was acceptable but the alternative, a 4 gauge copper pigtail has the habit of being gone before you can get back there with the panel you need to terminate it in and there is no real way for most 1&2 family electricians to splice it. CadWeld molds and the big crimpers for a legal splice are not usually on their truck. As long as the rebar is protected from the weather it seems to work OK.