What could people be thinking??? This is for a chemical pump that is plugged in 24/7... the upper socket is burnt, the reset is popped out and there's still power to the outlets... Oh BTW.. The cover is upside down!



problem solved... (No the GFI isn't SecurE, it's Leviton )

You still have a support issue IMO.

Dave

I agree with the support problem [314.23(F)]. But because it's easy to cast stones without offering solutions, in the future what about doing something like driving a piece of strut into the earth directly behind the box and bolting to that?

Otherwise, what you've done is a vast improvement over what was there initially.

-John

If this pump is running 24/7 (I'm assuming a permenant installation) wouldn't a cable gland with the flex entering into an isolating switch be a better solutoin than a plug & socket?

(Here you'd get away with no RCD/GCGI so a cost saving would also be realised)

I don't really understand an installation with a Class I, Division 1 fitting and a GFCI connected to each other.
Don

I see that all the time, well not the GFCI but C1D1 fittings where it makes little sense. I even do it sometimes as thats what I carry on my truck

The NEC is pretty restrictive about using cables or cords without plugs.

In this case another option might be to use a flexible conduit but then a disconnecting switch would likely be required.

That's pretty much what happened here IMO, A GUAG or and EAJ box is way more common to have out here than a stock of Bell boxes... This is on top of a hill outside of class 1, div 1 near a lease water tank.

When I came across this, I was only on order to get rid of the General Protecht (or however they spelled it) GFCI's, and kinda stumbled upon this one (35 minutes before quitting time on Friday ) I can install a piece of channel on the back of this and set it in fence post concrete, but they won't pay me OT to do that

As far as flexing, the Company we do the work for doesn't like these hardwired for reasons that if the pump dies in the middle of the night, they have to call us out to change it, vs. just plugging in a new pump. NTM these pumps just sit on the side of the tank with a couple hoses.(I'll get a pic when I go back)

Bob,
To a degree, I think that that was what Darren (32VAC) was talking about, as long as the isolator/disconnect can be locked open (OFF), I can't really see what the issue is.
Personally, I hate the idea of plugs and sockets being used outdoors, no matter how well they are "weather-protected" or even if they have GFCI protection on them, after all, how often are these devices tested?.
Just my $0.02 worth.

Mike, for the most part the NEC does not allow 'hard wiring' rubber cords. If we choose to use rubber cord in most instances a plug and receptacle is required.

I don't know how it compares with New Zealand, but this is one thing which is a particularly noticable difference between American and British practice even in a residential setting.

In the U.K. we're far more likely to have exhaust fans, garbage disposals, pumps, and similar devices hardwired to a wall outlet where they'd likely be plug-and-cord connected in the States (not to mention heavier stuff like electric ranges).

The NEC allows the use of hardwired rubber cord for some installations but is pretty tight about it.

Here is my guess why, here in the US flexible cords are made of rubber which tends to dry rot.

When I have worked with flexible cords from other countries I find them to often be of better quality, not made primarily of rubber etc.

I would be all for a move away from the US type rubber cords to European type flexible cords.

That's a good point to consider. PVC is the norm for all hard-wired cords here now unless conditions demand something else. Butyl rubber is still used in this way when connecting to immersion heater elements, storage heaters, and similar appliances though.

Bob,
Is the use of PVC flex not that prevalent in the US?
Rubber has certain advantages when used in Industry, in that it is resistant to attack from things like gasoline, oils and the like.
PVC however, being polymer-based should not be exposed to these sorts of things.
PVC also has the down-fall of being awkward at low temperatures, it is hard to work correctly when the temperature is low.
I worked on a large PVC cable some years back at the hieght of winter and it snapped like a fresh carrot,luckily the 400V supply had already been turned off to it.

Mike, I can't pretend to speak for the entire trade, but it seems to me that PVC conduit is mainly used for underground runs. A secondary use is where exposed to corrosive chemicals, such as pool rooms. Finally, the PoCo seems to like it for their wires, whether for an underground run, or when coming down their poles.

John,
I was actually talking about the wire itself, not the covering.
PVC cables are pretty much the norm here as far as flex's go.
And even most of our fixed wiring cables as well.

In that case, I believe that our most common type of wire insulation (THHN) is an insulating PVC layer covered by a nylon protective sheath.

That said, from my work around plastics, I must add that PVC is by far the most added to, treated, blended plastic around. Saying something is made of 'pvc' is a lot like saying it has steel in it - there's an almost infinite variety of products, ranging from the junk to the jewel.

I think Trumpy was mostly talking about cords which do seem mostly rubber isolated in US commercial setups, unlike residential appliance cords. Europe tends to use PVC or even neoprene. Rubber cords are only used (as Trumpy mentioned) where the cords are prone to be exposed to oil, gasoline,...

Yeah Ragnar,
That is precisely what I was mumbling about.
I did an electrical inspection in a new service station/workshop, just before I left the PoCo, all of their leads were made of PVC, I told them they should be using rubber cords, that was a surprise to them.