[This message has been edited by Webmaster (edited 07-06-2005).]

The two violations:

1. Insufficient EMT bend radius.
2. Conduit installation likely not completed prior to installation of wires.

And at least five, and maybe seven more in the upper photo:

3. Improper connector at box (not for EMT).
4. Exposed wires to lighting fixture.
5. Lighting fixture not listed for direct surface mounting.
6. Insufficient NM bend radius (into hole in soffit).
7. NM not secured within 12" of box.

If this is considered a wet location:

8. NM not allowed in wet location.
9. Non-weathertight box in wet location.

Did I miss anything?

Good eyes, John! FWIW, I was so focused on the bend I failed to notice the way the pipe was connected to the box :-(

I'm not sure about the "flush mounting" issue; there sure are a lot of lights mounted around here where the wire simply pokes through a hole in the wall; the space in the fixture is your only "box."

Being directly under the eave, as I was taught, would make this a "damp", rather than "wet" location. I was taught to imagine a 45 degree angle from the edge of the overhang to the wall or ground....inside this area was "damp." I can't document this "rule" though- maybe someone else can?

Hmm,
I would say that that metal box isn't going to last long the way that it is installed.
Air-borne moisture will see to that.
That bend (if you can call it that) is a real beauty.
Exactly what sort of a saddle is that in the bottom picture?.
I'd have to go along with Reno here on the "surface-mounting" issue, we have a lot of exact same sensor-light units here that merely screw to the soffit of the house (into timber, of course).
One other thing, has the sensor unit on this fitting been mounted upside-down?
Reason I say that, is because the Time/Lux controls should be pointing downward, or is the black thing on the sensor there a slide switch?

The sensor is oriented correctly..the black thing is a slide switch, and, if you have a good screen, you can barely see to the right of it a white dial that adjusts the sensitivity.

As for the "coupling:" I had never seen this fitting before. My best guess is that it is used to join EMT to MC cable. The "saddle" being the part that clamps on the MC.

I've never seen the coupling shown either, but:



Here's a Regal brand 1/2" EMT x 3/8"flex coupling. Maybe???

that installation to the light is missing a ground too.

Hemingray,
I do believe that them fittings are Double Insulated, No Earth Required.

We call that a BX to EMT connector.For running in drop ceilings.We install it just above the t-bars to transition to emt for surface mount switches,receptacles.usually it's AC90 to emt though.Saves time and space

[This message has been edited by frank (edited 07-08-2005).]

quote by frank:
We call that a BX to EMT connector.For running in drop ceilings.We install it just above the t-bars to transition to emt for surface mount switches,receptacles.usually it's AC90 to emt though.Saves time and space
------------------------------------

I don't think that you could use this fitting for BX (AC) or for MC cable since it does not have the retainer for the antishort. I believe that it only listed for 3/8" flex to EMT.

Are the conductors in AC and/or MC marked? I've seen many mentions of folks wanting to strip the jacket off Romex and run the wires through conduit, which idea is nixed because the conductors aren't marked. Is the situation different with AC and MC? Otherwise, I don't see how one could use this fitting to transition from AC/MC to EMT.

EMT to 3/8" flex makes sense, though, to continue a THHN run into a motor whip, etc.

Yup, I completely missed the "fixture is not grounded" violation!

I'll accept that it's a "damp" location. I'd still want a weathertight box.

As to surface mounting that fixture to siding or timber: It's OK for the entire back of the "junction box" formed by the fixture base to be combustible? I mean, I'm sure it's done a thousand times a day, but is it a "correct" wiring method?

I have a theory: The installer intended to mount the light fixture on the box, but after he got it mounted and the conduit and Romex attached, he noticed that the screw holes were on the wrong diagonal (look at the fixture base). Instead of re-doing the box, he just screwed the fixture to the soffit, put a blank cover on the box, and said, "Yeah, I meant to do it that way."

Who ever really knows what went through the mind of a hack worker?

The fixture might not have a ground lead; many such fixtures are entirely made of plastic.

Technical rules aside, I'd also like to see a weathertight box- too many times I've found standard boxes infested with spiders or wasps. Really annoying to try to take the cover off- and see multiple little legs pulling back :-)