404.14(E) Dimmer Switches. General-use dimmer switches shall be used only to control permanently installed incandescent luminaires (lighting fixtures) unless listed for the control of other loads and installed accordingly.

This probably has a plug on the other end of the zip cord. In that case, does NEC apply?
/mike

Hi I'm Peter,
Yes it does have a plug on the other end.

I don't understand, why not get one of those plug-in table top dimmers where you plug it into the wall, plug the lamp into the through-tap and there's a cord with a dimmer switch at the end?

Alternatively, you can get a dimmer switch that attaches to the lamp's cord like a regular on-cord switch, except that instead of a rocker, it has a knob that you turn with your thumb.

Either of the above solutions would have been simpler, cheaper and safer than this kludge that Peter shows us.

EDIT: Also, those boxes are not listed for that type of portable application. The metal ones have knockouts that can break off and the plastic boxes will shatter like a phonograph record if dropped on the floor, kicked or banged.

[This message has been edited by SvenNYC (edited 05-18-2004).]

I definitely agree with the issues concerning durability, and I don't like the idea of this thing getting knocked around by that piece of zip-cord with no gromets or strain-relief to speak of.

But on the plus side, at least they had sense enough not to use a grounding-type receptacle and what appears to be heavier-than-normal 16 gauge lamp cord...

It's pretty bad when I look at something like this and think: "Well, it could be worse...."

-John

that looks like a new ungrounded receptacle... why would they still make these?

Matt,
Ungrounded receptacles are still made for situations where there is an existing ungrounded receptacle needing replacement. Instead of replacing the receptacle with a GFCI, you can use one of these. However... they are sold at "home centers" and the last time I looked, El Cheapo outlets from the big bin were about 40¢, while these cost over $1.50. It's likely that the NEMA 5-15 outlets are used with nothing connected to the ground, instead of using these 1-15's
Edited because im in YIM mode and abbreviate everything

[This message has been edited by sparked (edited 05-22-2004).]

ah i c... makes sense to me ... i've just never seen these before in any hardware stores.

[This message has been edited by MattE (edited 05-23-2004).]

You mean you guys didn't know....??? That's a redneck lamp dimmer.

And yes I've seen these new at Lowes and even Wal Mart IIRC....wonder why they don't make the old t-slot receptacles anymore?

[This message has been edited by Dawg (edited 10-30-2006).]

What happens if your TV gets plugged in there by mistake and you dim it? Would it damage the TV?

It would likely damage both TV and dimmer, and possibly cause an injury.

I have one in a metal box with a metal cover with the top marked "Ctl 600W MAX" and the bottom marked as unswitched. I used a 14# cord and use mine for specific applications. I doubt it would over dissipate if I plugged most TVs into it. It's harder to predict what the front end of a set would do because of variations between sets. I think most sets would survive with a shutdown. The lowered input average voltage might cause a switching element to have a higher duty cycle and average current causing a failure. I have seen a camera control unit power supply die that way. Specifics were a sine wave input of 77 VAC, rather than a phase controlled 120, but the net result was the same.
Joe

I would add that I think the guy should be shot for clashing a white duplex with an ivory or almond dimmer and cover like that!

[This message has been edited by JoeTestingEngr (edited 10-30-2006).]

Hemingway what kind of damage/pi you think it would cause?

FWIW back in '77 my parents bought a house that was built in '48. The living room had 5 outlets, 3 of them controlled by a standard dimmer switch. They never used the dimmer but they did have their TV and stereo plugged into the receptacles that were controlled by it.

Eventually the dimmer was replaced by a standard wall switch, the kind that make the loud "click" when turned on and off, sort of like a circuit breaker does.

I built a similar device to control the heat output on my soldering iron. I used a metal box and taylor cover as well as cabtyre. I am sure it is not "approved"

Dawg,

Damage to the TV set and Dimmer, and personal injury should something explode or ignite. It would likely only happen if you tried to dim the load though. I'm not too sure of this as I have never done it, but I advise against finding out.

Hmm, something else for Mythbusters.

Ian A.

A few years back I had to reduce the flow on a pond pump. I called the motor manufacturer and he said he'd send me a speed control. I received a 600 watt generic rotary dimmer and a bill for $20 (plus shipping).
It worked and has been working ever since, doesn't hurt the motor either.
Don't know about the listing but the mfg said this is what they have been using for years.

I had an old blender with no speed control, just an on/off switch. On a whim, I installed a 600W dimmer in it. It worked for maybe a week before it started sporadically turning on and off, or would only work on high speed. I figured the dimmer just couldn't handle the motor load. I wonder how come the pumps work so well?

-John