Hi,
I used to just stub out a 10/2 w grnd at the water heater and bond the cold water.

What is the best way to do it now?

Do I need to run flex over to the heater itself?

Do I need to bond the hot and cold together back to the panel?

Thanks for any comments.

-regards

Greg

They want to see a disconnect around here and that is usually where the electrician stops, although he still "owns" the wire going to the water heater if there is a violation. I see them run in everything from just Romex to FMC, MC or SealTite.
I haven't seen metal water pipe in so long I tend to forget about bonding

Hi,
yes that is why I am asking because what used to be ok may not be the norm nowadays...I havent heard of a disco being required at the heater itself. This is not a code requirement is it?

I will probably just use my old standard...stub out the 10/2 wgrnd and use a romex connector toconnect it to the heater itself.

See any problem with that?

Most everything around here is Copper.

-regards

Greg

Greg,

A disconnect may be required, depending on where the water heater is located in relationship to the panel that feeds it. A water heater is an appliance, so check out 422.31(B)

Tom

Almost everything we wire needs a disconnecting means within sight.

There are some exceptions and also sometimes ways around it with breaker locks.

As Tom pointed out check out 422.31(B) for water heater.

Hi,
The water heater certainly exceeds the 300w limit. The circuit breaker is NOT within sight but it can be locked in the open position with a breaker lock-out.

Should I just put a non fused disco at all water heaters and forget it? What is the norm anymore?

Thanks for the code ref.

-regards

Greg

Breaker locks are approved here and are cheaper than a disco.

If I was the AHJ on an inspection for a water heater, I would accept a breaker padlock device manufactured by the same company that made the breaker/panelboard.

Many mobile/manufactured homes have an electric water heater & every one that i have looked at has a padlock attachment on the breaker. This makes HUD happy & so a similar installation in a dwelling should satisfy any AHJ you deal with, but it is always best to ask if you aren't sure.

You could use one of those $8 pull out air conditioner disconnects just to CYA, but IMO, you'd be wasting $8 & some time.

Tom