Just replaced the fence around my yard. I’m toying with the idea of supplementing the chain link with an electrified strand or two.

I note that even the stand-alone solar controllers require ground rod(s). This makes sense — the power needs a path back to the controller.

My question is: Is the ground rod for the fence supposed to be bonded to the household grounding electrode system?

Logic seems to say “no” but the NEC language seems to say “yes.”

An electric fence does need a ground reference to work but I see no reason why it needs to be bonded to the service GEC since it is a totally separate system, not connected to the structure or the electrical system.
How are you going to isolate the stinger wire from the fence? I believe there are commercial standoffs.

In reality a metal fence anchored into the ground with numerous metal posts is probably a lot better electrode than a rod but we can't say that.

Good points.
You’ve got me thinking. Since I’m planning to mount to a chain link fence — dedicated insulated brackets are readily available — perhaps I should bind the fence itself to the ground rods as well. With a good return path, a good “zap” is certain.
For some reason the instructions call for three six-foot rods, spaced at least eight feet apart. I don’t know where that plan originated; both the NEC and the American Electricians Handbook have a somewhat different approach.
I note that the provided rod clamps are aluminum, and there is text advising you to slip a bare aluminum wire through a plastic tube when you bury it (for example, to get around a gate). Aluminum? Ground contact? Sounds like a recipe for corrosion to me.

I have one of those "pet strength" fence chargers I used to teach my dog not to bust out the screens and I just connected the ground to the screen cage but that is probably the best ground on the property since it is part of in in ground pool grid. I doubt a chain link fence with a bunch of steel posts buried it the ground could ever be much above ground potential. If you hooked the ground of the charger to the fence and the stinger wire was above that, I doubt anything could get by it.
What are you trying to stop?

Up here the Zoning Dept. does not allow any type of electric fence, either resi or commercial.

Reason I was made aware of it was an EC filled out his permits for an 'electric fence', BUT he was refering to an electric gate to enter a secure parking/loading area of a warehouse.

We live out in the country here. Electric fences are used a lot. Cattle ranchers all seem to have them. A little hog wire fence with a stinger on top keeps them in the pasture and not out on US41.
That little FYShok I got certainly taught my dog not to bust out my screens. It has been abandoned for over 5 years but the dog had it figured out right away.

My purpose would be to discourage folks from climbing the fence.
NOT a serious concern, nor do I have a a serious intention of putting one up — yet. I simply saw the products and . . . well, “curiosity” is probably the best word. I was thinking if placing a live wire or two at the too of a aux foot fence.

If that is all you want to do, get a solar one, hook it up like you would a solar yard light. Ground it to the fence and run your stinger. Anything but the stinger, including the intruder will be ground. Perfect fault path

Great! Thats one additional layer of protection imagined.
Now all I need is to place my order with Land Mines dot Boom 😀

Princess Diana won't like that
I have been thinking about your project having done this myself. First, leave your NEC in the house, that is all about not shocking people.
I think I would run the stinger with 14 ga galvanized baling wire. Where you are going underground, transition to an LB, RNC and "well" wire. That is king kong TW designed to be wet from the day it is installed until you pull the pump or the well runs dry. I would make the standoffs by drilling and tapping 1/2" NPT hubs in the post caps, putting RNC male adapters in there and maybe pouring the inside with JB Weld if you never want them to move. Stick in a stub of RNC with a hole near the end and thread your wire through.
Another thing I found is that tygon tube they use for medical oxygen is a great insulator for short sections of the stinger. That is how I got through the screen cage structure.
My wife is on O2 and I can send you all that tubing you want, only slightly used