I installed some new can lights in my kitchen last September. 6 in total. I had one that was already over the sink area and added another over my counter area and 2 over an island and 3 over my stove area.
Looks really nice and alot better than the flourescent that was in the middle of the room to start.
Anway, my problem is this. Since that time I have gone thru 5 bulbs (lamps) for these. I had been putting in 65 Watt Philips Indoor bulbs (lamps). They are rated at 120V.
Now I checked the voltage at the first can light and it was 123.4V. and at the last can it is 122.9V. I know the actual voltage is a little higher than what the lamps are rated for and wondering if that is a big part of the problem.
So my question would be, should I spend some extra money and buy the 130V rated lamps, or are Philips bulbs just crap?
Any help or opinions are appreciated.
Thanks,
Philip
5 volts over the rated voltage will halve the life of a bulb- so yes, getting the 130 volt bulbs wil make a big difference.
The other factor is heat. Here, you will see a real difference between reflector-type bulbs and "standard" bulbs.
Assuming that there is no dimmer on the circuit- have you considered trying a compact fluorescent bulb. Again, asuming that you're not using a totally closed "shower" trim, heat ought not be a problem for them.
I second the fluorescents. I replaced all my incandescents with fluorescents, and they have been going for almost 2 years now.
Same here. Had two porch-type luminaires on the front of my garage with bulbs having to be replaced every few months (they are on all night every night for security) Switched them to compact fluorescents, saved energy, and one lasted six years, the other is going on seven.
Thanks for the replies.
I think I'm going to try the higher voltage bulbs first. I really don't care for the light given off from the compact flourescents, but if I have to I'll learn to live. As long as it means I don't have to pull a ladder out once a month.
Thanks again guys!!
I get a lot of complaints about Phillips. Try Sylvania instead.
Dave
SYLVANIA????!?!?!?!?!
ARRRRGHHHHHHH!!!!
Sorry, just my opinion... Had a few too many Sylvania lamps not work, burn out prematurely or in one case with a " Q-250 PAR-38".. it EXPLODED...
I have been using G.E lamps lately wherever I can... never a problem..
A.D
[This message has been edited by Rewired (edited 02-20-2006).]
A dimmer will make the bulbs last longer.
Tom
...Or in one case with a " Q-250 PAR-38" it EXPLODED.
I had a H/O ask me about some exploding bulbs once. The answer I came up with (and you lamp guru's might want to fact check this) is that a lot of incandescents have fuses to limit the fault current that flows through any arc between the filament supports. If this fuse fails to open properly, the energy released by the arc can cause the glass envelope to shatter.
-John
Are these lights ic rated? The reflector lamps mentioned are speced for this type of light. I have seen many were standard a lamps are used and the do not last . Check the rating for type a lamp I bet its like 50w.
John:
I have heard of that lamps do have this, but in this case, this particular lamp that exploded was one that was in service for a few weeks.. This " Q-250 -PAR38"
looks like the typical "Outdoor flood" you would buy at any hardware or home improvement store only its rated 250W and meant for use in these large Cans in the ceiling in the convention center...
The Quartz capsule containing the filament ruptured with such force that it shattered the outer glass reflector and lens, sending hot glass down onto the floor, mere seconds after one of the center's employees walked under the fixture!
I dunno, I have just had bad luck with Sylvania lamps in the past.. from them being duds in the box, to them burning out prematurely.. I have even had a few regular incandescents shatter in my hands while installing them ( ALWAYS USE GLOVES!!).. Their Metal halide lamps always seem to fail violently as well, the arc- tube always seems to explode and puncture a hole in the outer envelope of the bulb.. Makes for a real pain and a real mess when trying to remove one. Chances are the outer envelope is going to shatter as soon as you even look at it wrong!
Thats just my opinion though.. I am not really keen on Phillips anymore, but they work.. G.E bulbs I have always seemed to have luck with.. They always work, seem to last the longest and when its their turn to " Bow out", They dont go out with a BANG!
A.D
I had a 4 lamp halogen fixture that had bulbs explode. They also became very bright before exploding. Turned out to be a bad neutral connection at the fixture itself.
A dimmer will make the bulbs last longer.
Why do you say this? Could you elaborate a little please?
GA, a dimmer has the effect of lowering the voltage at the bulb.....assuming the thing is not on "full bright." Less volts = more life.
I recently saw an old friend who I did some recessed lights for. He told me that he's never had to replace any of the light bulbs I installed. The thing is, I did these lights for him in 1993!!! Talk about long-life bulbs!
Shock...maybe if he actually turned them on...they might wear out quicker.
"123.4V. and at the last can it is 122.9V"
Its not much of a deal maybe, but how far are these cans from each other? Was this checked under load? If not, a .5 volt loss could be a sign of a slightly loose connection, and could contribute to lamps blowing out. It's one of those things that is hard to find, or recongnize, but a slightly resistive connection could do the same thing. Eat bulbs. Firm contact in the base too.
Some of us who have done service type work have probhably come accross this a few times.
I would pay a little extra and use the 130V lamps.
Also if a dimmer is installed, when lamps are dimmed 10%, the life of the lamp is usually doubled.
If I was not going to dim them, the way to go is compact flourescent. Instead of 65W, you would only be using 15W, and most CFL's are rated for 10000 hours (about 5 times as long as a namebrand BR or PAR lamp)
http://wanglo.com/cfl/r30.htm Personally, I prefer this lamp in the link over any of the big name manufacturers because of size (same as BR30) and its colour is virtually identical to an incandescant lamp, not to mention it is affordable.
[This message has been edited by distributor x (edited 02-25-2006).]
Regular GE bulbs and 130V/69W Phillips and Sylvania bulbs last the longest in my sealed traffic signals, which have internal temps of about 300ºF. We have two compact flourescants from when they first came out at $15 a pop, and they're going strong. The newer, cheap ones are crap. 1 out of every 5 DOA.
Ian A.