I have a customer who wants some of the undercounter "puck lights" installed. I have looked at some and they have a cord and plug on them. How have some of you installed these without having to run a cord down the wall to an outlet? Is there room inside the light to make a connection if the cord was removed? It sure doesn't look like it, in the ones I've seen.Thought about mounting a receptacle in the cabinet, and running the cord up through the bottom of the cabinet to the receptacle, but that takes away from the space in the cabinet for dishes etc. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.. Steve
Steve:
The ones that I have seen are low voltage (12v) with a remote transformer, either magnetic or the new electronic ones.
I have seen guys run zip cord, t'stat wire, you name it thru the walls to the transformer, they buy a red sticker always.
THen you have the lv wire from the puck spliced to romex, and they try to hide the splice in the sheetrock.
Some custom kitchens have a false bottom in the cabinet to facilitate wiring, and a trim piece on the top to conceal the xfr. Some had chases built into the cabinet frame to hide the wiring.
Are ya sure the ones you saw are 120??
John
John, yes I'm pretty sure the ones at the "HD store" are 120 volt. They have 20 watt halogen bulbs. My customer also wants one or two inside a glass corner cabinet. Thanks again for the input.. Steve
Steve:
Now I'll have to go to the Orange Box tommorow and look if they are avail up here.
OK, now you have to hide a recept.......
A strip of plugmold tight under the cabs, a few tie-wraps to coil the cords (or cut to fit & put a quick male on the end)
Good luck...
John
I have seen thsese 120v pucks and installed a few. They are garbage. the lamps are very hot and do not last long at all.
Scott, Thanks for the info. What brand do you recommend? The low voltage type? Thanks again for your input. Steve..
LV pucks are the way to go. Way more flexibility with the install. Get the ones with the Xenon bulbs. They last longer and run cooler.
I second Escott's sentiments. Garbage and look very yellow compared to 12V. We use Nora pucks with Either Nora or Hera xformer. The 120V plug gets hidden in the upper and the LV wire gets staple to the front of the cabinet frame.
For under-cabinet lighting, I'll take low-profile, hard-wired fluorescents any day.
Run cool(er), low power consumption, even linear lighting, and great as night-lights.
It's wise to see the for these (UL 153, under QOVJ)
http://database.ul.com/cgi-bin/XYV/cgifind.new/LISEXT/1FRAME/srchres.html "These products are not intended for installation in recessed walls or ceilings, or in permanently installed cabinets where the wiring is concealed or passed through openings in the structure."[This message has been edited by e57 (edited 07-27-2005).]
Do a search here on puck lights. Many times it comes up. Some including myself think they are junk. I refuse to install them anymore. The electronic transformers that come with them seem to have problems. Some bulb life is listed at 1000-2000 hours but I'm never that lucky. The bulbs are a PITA to replace and don't tuch them. The sockets heat up and loose tension so they don't allways work. If they are on every day they won't last 6 months. The replacement bulbs at the supplier are almost as much as the puck.
Get a nice halogen under cab light or a mini track & bulb like Juno Trac 12 or Halo. The prices are compairable.
Tom
I don't care what you do but do not buy the 120V puck lights from the orange store. When you put a dish in the cabinet the light flickers and the bulbs don't last but a couple months. JUNK.
The low voltage pucks are ok but whatever you do, do not load the xfmr with even one more watt than it is rated for. Or you will have a similar problem but with xfmr's not lasting more than one month.