Once again I've landed on a job run by the cast of the muppet show....
It seems that everyone south of VT comes here to either run a Bed & Breakfast ( too many Bob Newhart reruns), or build a log cabin ( Grizzly Adams??).

This one's a log cabin, most of which i'm called in on after the first 3 logs are set on the foundation ( about 18") . Sometimes the GC has figured the basic 6 & 12' rule and drilled down thru, sometimes not. Most doorway switch locations ( given the door swing) are obvious.

This time, it's all built! No access has been provided or even thought of , as i sarcatically asked the owner if the GC ( Elmo?...Oscar?) had a 5' drill.

I have wired my share of these, but have never really been privy to the instructions. Does anyone here know if there is something that even eludes to ' get the wire there'??


Mz Piggy stompped off the site pissed!

sounds like a time and material job. about $100.00/hr. only did one of those log cabins never again.

Greenlee has a diversa bit in various sizes and lengths-up to 72" if memorary serves me correctly.
Good luck

Sparky--

I wouldn't mess with the d'versibit. It's designed to drill through framing (basically 2-by lumber) and you'll have a problem with chip clearance trying to drill several feet of solid wood. Also, I bet the d'versibit will wander off line and what a mess that'll be.

I'd use a naileater (ship's auger) or an electrician's bit (auger with cutting spur, makes a neater hole). Use a 7/8" or 1" bit, start with a 6", go to an 18", then start adding extentions. Make sure the hex screws on the extentions are tight, and check them occasionally when you pull the drill stack out to clear chips.

To create the cavities for the boxes, I'd use a small chain saw--plunge cut & hog it out. Or use a plunge router and shallow (mobile home) boxes.

I agree, price the job based on $100/hr, and build a new hole hawg (and about 10 bits @ $30 ea) into the bid.

Is the roof on yet? If so, I'd get the stupic GC to remove the shakes or whatever above where you're going to drill down, and drill from above. The GC can have the roofing sub come in and patch sheathing, felt, replace shakes, etc.

Hoo-boy, this is gonna cost! The alternative is to surface-mount the boxes and use wire-mold. Maybe the wire-mold could be covered with a wooden half-round (w/channel routed in back).

Best of luck...

Cliff

LOL!
so Cliff, you've lost bits when the extensions came loose too! glad i'm not alone. Yes, the roofs on, and has that hard insulation in it too...

Sparky
I have been thinking of building a Log House, but haven't done all my homework. What all you guys have said gives me something to think about. You can go out to lhoti.com and there are some builders who post some good ideas. Maybe they have done this before and can help. It won't take you long to figure out who they are.
I always thought that the electric had to go in before the roof goes on unless it can come from under floor, as from a basement for receptacles. The lighting has to be properly designed if chandiliers are used in an open area. I don't know yet how to do that without wiring showing.
Good luck.

My brother has built a few large log houses in the last few years-He understood the problems associated with elec. installs, and augered the logs lengthwise, that is, cut a v-shaped groove down the length of each log on the bottom,(This is necessary for certain other reasons) then, he cut areas for outlet boxes where appropriate, and ran a length of rope between each of the holes, and tied a small stick to each end-thus, the walls were pre-fished, so to speak. The Electrician was most appreciative of this. See if your builder will take this simple step.

http://www.horns-a-plenty.com/mounts.htm
WARREN1 ;
Did you see this in your link? The 4-pointer
for $1500!!! ,,, and the moose, well he was in my backyard a few mornings ago.....

mickky;
a creative builder, it's nice to see the trades work with consideration for each other

I've wired a couple of these and rewired two, as well. If at all possible, the outlets can go in the flat baseboard around a room. Talk them into a 1x6 if you can. Staple the NM in the cresent of the lowest log. We always tried to put the switches for the rooms (and exterior) in the trim around the doors, since it tends to be generally a large piece lumber (1x8 to 1x12)to hide the oversize doorways log homes have for some reason. You can also use that space as a chase for upstairs, since there's only a log or two above doors (again, generally). Kitchen counter recpts probably will have to be routed out, so try to talk them into quads where you can. T & M is the only way to go, to cover hard spots.

Moose? Moose in the back yard? Did I hear someone say "Moose"? Can I come visit during hunting season? Please?

Dallas
That is the way most of the builders talk about their installations, around the baseboard, and the switches in the mullion of the door. As I understand it, all log homes settle, regardless of the type of log, pine or cedar. Cedar is not as bad. The kitchen receptacles will need to be supported so as to account for the settlement. They say the kitchen cabinets, base and overhead are mounted on a 2X cut into the logs vertically and mounted using a slot cut in so the nail (with a washer on it) will slide with the settlement. Just something for you to consider. lot o' luck with this project. Will be interested in hearing about how you made the installation work, details, details, details.

Warren makes a very good point about settlement/shrinkage-my brother's largest project shrank by almost 18 inches over the 2 years following completion. Everything attached to the structure must take this into account-panels, conduit, even outlet boxes can get squeezed out of shape.

Some good points, trim hidden raceways, settlement , when Mz Piggy is done thrashin' the GC ( kermit?) i'll pass them on....

I've never wired a log home...but I've heard about the horrors.

I just wanted to say that I love the title of this thread! Sparky, you crack me up!

GJ

thanks gj,
this crews a lot of fun, she went off just like Mz. Piggy ( when she gets mad) when i made the 5' drill crack....


Did I hear someone say "Moose"?
Dallas,
VT is divided up into districts, they have a lottery for any with an overabundant population ( Moose,that is...) we are not one this year....however if he starts eatin' what's left of my garden, i'll give ya a call...(Crop damage!)

Thanks, Sparky! My diversion from electric 24/7 is archery/bowhunting; keeps me sane.. Mostly. I'll be waitng for your call!

WARREN1;
Kiln dried logs really help control settlement/ shrinkage. Settling and shrink are the reasons for the large areas around the doors and windows, I remember that now that you mentioned it. The builder we worked with custom built self-standing cabinetry for the kitchen, mounted to the frame-built floor, rather than the wall. The uppers were hung from the 2nd floor joist system, as well. (He's done this before )

To keep from having to do a lot of extra work, we rout out the center of the log face. The log itself won't shrink enough to cause problems, it's the fit between the logs that compress so much. Most log homes (around here) are the factory cut type, and not the full log, custom notched on site ones. That probably has a BIG bearing on my experiences with them, and the two we re-wired were WAY past the settle/shrink stage. Closer to the ROT stage, actually

[This message has been edited by Dallas (edited 10-11-2001).]