gas range igniters - ECN Electrical Forums

Some gas ranges and gas cooking tops require electricity for the igniters. Question: do you hard wire these, or provide a receptacle?
If a receptacle, what is the height above the floor?
Creighton

Creighton,
Every cooktop I've seen with igniters is cord & plug connected... the igniters draw very little energy, as the 25W light in the over also... I typically place the outlet +18"AFF behind the unit...

-Randy

PS... I've come across a couple gas ranges with "browning elements" in them, which are electric. The ones I saw required a dedicated circuit per mfr instructions (1750W 120V).
Just something to keep an eye open for [Linked Image]

Creighton, I once had a problem with the range ignitor tripping the GFI I had it on. Inspector said GFI was not needed.

We do ours pretty much like Randy.

A recep about 18 or 20" above the floor.

Russell

I've had requests to mount the receptacles 24" AFF for ease of access.

Another thing to watch for...
Trim kits, if the range requires any tools to remove, the receptical is no longer accessable, so you should put it a cabinet to the left or right. Some will specify which one.

Thanks to all. In a nearby jurisdiction an installer wanted to put the receptacle on the wall above the gas range. The only thing we could find in the NEC to prohibit it was 110.11 where it speaks of excessive temperatures.

E57 where is the requirement for the receptacles to be accessible? You can put them behind dishwashers, built in microwaves, trash compactors, etc. Why not a built in stove?

Never checked it out but the amp draw of

these Igniters seem to be high as they will

not fire if you're having low volatge.Seen

this happen often.

Accessible (As applied to equipment)Admitting close approach:not gurded by locked doors, elevation or other effective means.

Accessible readily: Capable of being reached quickly for operation, renewal or inspection without requiring those to whom ready access is requisite to climb over or remove obstacles or to resort to portable ladders, chairs, etc.

So according to the above explanation i would consider behind dishwasher,built-in microwave and a compactor not readily accessible.

Edward

[This message has been edited by Edward (edited 07-17-2004).]

Electricmanscott,
Not in my town....
If it requires tools to access the the plug, it fails 422.16!

Might be just another SF thing, but I never do it anywhere else either. The code wording is vague, but the way it's read around hear is typical to any appliance fastened in place, they read it as the same as 422.16B(2).

Stoves
Trash Compactors
Ovens
Dishwashers
Microwaves
What-ever, not just in the kitchen either.

Technically, anything with a cord, and screwed to a cabinet, or anything else.

Quote

422.16B(2)Built-in Dishwashers and Trash Compactors.

Built-in dishwashers and trash compactors shall be permitted to be cord-and-plug connected with a flexible cord identified as suitable for the purpose in the installation instructions of the appliance manufacturer where all of the following conditions are met.
(1) The flexible cord shall be terminated with a grounding-type attachment plug.
Exception: A listed dishwasher or trash compactor distinctly marked to identify it as protected by a system of double insulation, or its equivalent, shall not be required to be terminated with a grounding-type attachment plug.
(2) The length of the cord shall be 0.9 m to 1.2 m (3 ft to 4 ft) measured from the face of the attachment plug to the plane of the rear of the appliance.
(3) Receptacles shall be located to avoid physical damage to the flexible cord.
(4) The receptacle shall be located in the space occupied by the appliance or adjacent thereto.
(5) The receptacle shall be accessible.

[This message has been edited by e57 (edited 07-18-2004).]

i hit two concerns w/ one circuit here.

Undercab lights, which are best single wire due to final movement/placement all make back to a 4/11 with single mud plate for a dup rec, behind the stove.

(i learned that here btw) [Linked Image]

as to hardwired appliances, check out those that have been so for 30 odd years, replaced along the way, remodeled around, etc....

you'll be sold on a non-electrician means of detachment...

~S~

The NEC seems to contradict itself in allowing a receptacle behind a dishwasher or trash compactor. "In the space occupied by the appliance or adjacent thereto". "Shall be accesible" As for other appliances every built in micro, I have been involved with specs the location for the recptacle. It is always behind the unit. Manufacturers instructions?

The cord does not have to be called the disconnecting means. [Linked Image]

If the unit has a switch marked off you are probably all set. 422.34

Bob

422.16(B)(3) allows the receptacle supplying the counter-mounted cooking units to be connected by cord and plug. No mention of accessibility is included as it is for dishwashers and trash compactors.
It is permitted to cord and plug connect any counter-mounted cooktop, regardless of it's mounting hardware!

Quote

Undercab lights, which are best single wire due to final movement/placement all make back to a 4/11 with single mud plate for a dup rec, behind the stove.

That is a great idea, even if you can get the placement right, getting 2 cables closed up in some under cabinet lights can be tough.

I have a job going now that I have six 'little inch' under cab lights to wire with 12/2 MC I also will have a JB but I have the option of installing it above the dropped ceiling.

Bob

Found another code, more applicable to the orignial question, 422.33A+B

Quote

(A) Separable Connector or an Attachment Plug and Receptacle. For cord-and-plug-connected appliances, an accessible separable connector or an accessible plug and receptacle shall be permitted to serve as the disconnecting means. Where the separable connector or plug and receptacle are not accessible, cord-and-plug-connected appliances shall be provided with disconnecting means in accordance with 422.31.
(B) Connection at the Rear Base of a Range. For cord-and-plug-connected household electric ranges, an attachment plug and receptacle connection at the rear base of a range, if it is accessible from the front by removal of a drawer, shall be considered as meeting the intent of 422.33(A).

iwire, where do you put the switch, if you can't use the cord as disconnect? In the cab next to it...

Now I have put recepticals under stoves, 2' from the floor, for stoves that have spring held toe kicks. Simular to the way one would place the rerceptical for a Sub-Zero fridge. (that 6X9" square behind the unit) And micro's with spring held trim kits. (I have only seen one type made this way. panasonic)No tools...

As for under cab's I do the same thing, but also accessable, in the back of the lower cab's. For romex jobs the best item is the 2g adjustable box. Carlon zip box, I do the whole kitchen in them! They have a screw to adjust the depth on the side of the box, so you can get zero tolorance on the wood in the cab. Or, I guess the "Smart box" advertised on this site could work, I haven't used them... I wish they made the same in steel.

E57 the unit switch(es) the ones on the front of the DW or range are allowed to be the disconnecting means if they meet the requirements of 422.34

That aside the requirements you posted 422.16(B)(2)(5) for example require the outlet to be accessible this is much different from readily accessible.

Quote

Accessible (as applied to equipment). Admitting close approach; not guarded by locked doors, elevation, or other effective means.

Quote

Accessible, Readily (Readily Accessible). Capable of being reached quickly for operation, renewal, or inspections without requiring those to whom ready access is requisite to climb over or remove obstacles or to resort to portable ladders, and so forth.

There is no reason the JB for the undercabs can not be behind the range.

The requirements for JBs are only accessible not readily accessible. [Linked Image]

Bob

iwire,
We'll agree to disagree. But don't do it in SF, that I know for sure!