Saw this somewhere else.
http://www.wire-easy.com/

I don't do any homes, what do you think

I was ready to blow it off, until I saw the UL listing mentioned.

If it's listed for 110/220, I suppose it would simply be up to the AHJ's.

Kind of intriguing... if these take off, does that mean I memorized box fills calculations for nothing?

I have mixed feelings. It looks cool, but if you have accessible space in the basement to install this, you could also use regular junction boxes and wirenuts. They say that wirenuts aren't reliable. They're plenty reliable when a professional electrician installs them properly. Maybe it will enable more DIYers to do work in their homes.

I've figured out a way of beating him on time. You would hate the quality of the installations and so would I, but I think it could be sufficiently safe to get the stuff approved. (No, I won't tell...)

don't let your kids near it.

Do anyone notice the wire is not secured between the sill plate and the boxes?

We had a variation of this over here in the late '70's.
We're still taking the darned things out.
They are a good idea, but don't let Mr H/O into it.
They don't tend to like being overloaded either.

It says 'Safe, U. L . tested, approved, listed and Rated for over 60 lbs. of pull.' but what I would really like to know is what it is UL _listed_ as, and what its current handling capacity is.

Also, I presume that it is considered a junction box and must remain accessible, which means that you couldn't use it in a ceiling that will be finished.

Finally, it seems in concept quite a bit like the European junction boxes with terminal strips built in. Cross ocean discussions of 'wire nuts' are often amusing

-Jon

I could have used that twice in my home.
(the other house I am woking on has little opportunity to use one).

Unless they have other configurations I don't think, one can do other than a star/bus config, in which case that switch in the pictures makes no sense (and the dream of enldess lighting configurations is nil), in which cans a regular junction box would be far better.


IMO, there is way to many screws along the front.

The first thing that came to my mind is providing 6" of free length for the conductos in the box. I am not usre if a "terminal block" would have the same requirement as a typical box. What do you think?

It will be tough for me to use this with MC.

I can see it now, Mr./Ms. DIYer won't follow the instructions and burys it in the wall. Sometime down the road,a problem develops, and guess who starts scratching his/her head when the problem can't be traced?

Do you honestly think the DIYer is going tell an electrician about a buried J-Box? If you think that, I've got an ocean view cabin here in Colorado.

Funny you should mention that, as this device immediately struck me as appearing far more like something from this side of the Atlantic.

The typical British version is something like this:



[This message has been edited by pauluk (edited 03-06-2004).]

I can't tell you the number of times I've gone to a troubleshoot and ask if any electrical work has been done recently. The answer is always no. Then an hour later, they'll tell you, "well last week we got rid of the outlet on that wall" or something to that effect. You go over to the area, cut it open much to there horor that they'll have to patch the wall again, and find a very poor flying splice with tape and no wire nuts. I have one homeowner that has done something like this 3 times and always denys having done anything until I get close to finding the problem. Why won't he learn?

The Teminal Box is not intended to be sold to diy's ,If that were the case We would have went to Ace Hardware or Menards instead of reputable suppliers like Caniff.com or EasternStates Electric.com. We at Wire-easy.com would like to see professional trained electricains using the system.Thanks Chris Strobel

they dont really tighten their terminals with an accu driller, do they?
with or without set torque?

i've seen guys setting up temporary office containers at our company, they made up their container on-wall mini panels with an accu driller. No torque, blast it in until the bit drills out of the screw, next one.

My comment about MC was not really serious.

As for NM cable I would give it a try, I am for anything that actual uses screws for connections instead of spring pressure. (Wagos and the like)

If a spring type connector (wago) is rated for 20 amps this certainly should handle it better.

As for torque specs any of us that work with wires all the time would quickly get the feel of these.

I am curious about what Ryan mentioned, six inches of free conductor at boxes, it has always been good to have slack to repair something that does go bad, and even if these are high quality at some point some will need a repair.

The DIY thing seems like a non issue to me, they bury entire panels along with 4" squares and flying splices, I do not see this item making it worse.

Just my opinion, not on the payroll.

Bob

Chris (Strobes)-

If you work for the company, how about answering questions posted about UL listing and other configurations? What about application under the NEC?

(Or are you just watching our responses to make advertising/marketing adjustments?)

Matt (the product creator) has been under the weather,but he plans to answer questions as soon as he is feeling better.There have been few more forums requesting more info to.
I do know Underwriters Lab hung a 60 lb weight on a nailed up terminal box with romex connected and it remained intact .The System will be listed in NEC but that will take time,I understand is not released very often.

Andi thanks for tha accu-driller tip

This does look like a convenient item for branching a branch circuit. I also agree that its distribution should be limited to folks in the trade for the reasons mentioned by others, even though I'm a DIY'er myself. It would be WAY too easy for DIY'ers to seriously abuse/misuse the application of it.

While mentioning the do-it-yourselfer and the sometimes cavalier attitudes they have toward electricity, perhaps our codes need an addendum such as:

"When the AHJ fails an inspection of an installation performed by non-licensed personnel (i.e., DIY'ers), the AHJ shall require the largest chair in the residence of said person(s) to be cord-and-plug connected."

I noticed something else in the ad. It says "UL approved"- I don't think they have actually APPROVED stuff in many, many years; items are LISTED, I believe. Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong.

That holds true for almost everything electrical-related that I've seen either directly or courtesy of this forum.

NM cable being connected to male and female cord-caps to make extension cords.

Handi-boxes being used as portable cordsets.

Circuit breakers with tie-wraps shoved into them.

Fuse-holders bridged with tin-foil, a piece of 12AWG wire. Screw-plug holders with slugs.

Extension cords being passed through holes in the wall or roof and wrapped on trees.

"Repaired" paper-lined metal-shell lampholders that have had the interior mechanism wrapped in MASKING TAPE because the original cardboard shell rotted away (I still have it around here somewhere).

The list goes on.

Also, keep in mind any DIY-er can buy from an electical supply house.

Where Has the pride and craftsmanship gone?
I would never put my name on anything like this.

The terminal box is designed to use 10,12, and 14 awg NM and in doing so is able to handle 30 amps, and the buss bars don't even get warm. The integrated wire clamps are designed to withstand a veritcal pull of 60 lbs, the same as the clamps on any U.L. approved junction box. Has anyone had to put 5 or more #12 together with wire nuts? A few OHM's makes a lot of heat and the terminal box makes perfect connections every time. Someone mentioned it looks like it came from the 70's, well if you think about the type of wiring that was done at that time the terminal box is a perfect replacement.

To the question from jim m, the pictures are demo so people can get the concept.

is that switch in the picture for testing the breaker, because it appears that if if you turn it on, it will result in a dead short

as for the product, i don't know if it would be a big improvement for new construction, because even though some time is saved on wiring the devices, you would most likely end up using more wire, and it takes more time to run and secure the additional wire

However, this could be very helpful in retrofit situations, in which there is normally one wire dropped down the wall from the attic or pulled up from the basement to each outlet. often these are joined in overstuffed junction boxes above or below each room. in this situation, since all of the wiring is being run anyways, a time saving device such as this would be a great benefit.

Yeah, that switch wiring DOES look suspicious!!!

Maybe the 2005 Code is going to require IFCI branch-circuit "protection" in certain situations. IFCI = Intentional Fault Circuit Interrupter

I, personally don't like it...I'll stick to wire-nutz and 1900 boxes,when I need to splice a line that will be accessable... thank you...
AR

SirArcalot said
"I noticed something else in the ad. It says "UL approved"- I don't think they have actually APPROVED stuff in many, many years; items are LISTED, I believe. Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong."


The System is Underwriters Lab Tested, Approved and, Listed .This information will be linked to wire-easy.com when it becomes available

Regarding the switch, if I'm looking at the correct picture, I don't see any problem. It appears that the switch is in the middle of a run - line enters the bottom of the box, load exits from the top...?

I'm assuming this is some type of mockup, for demonstration purposes...

Mike (mamills)

[This message has been edited by mamills (edited 03-09-2004).]

oops, i take back my comment about the switch in the picture. it is wired correctly, with the load coming off of the top of the switch box. the site made a reference to switched recepticles, and i thought that was what the picture was supposed to show. i thought the switch was wired with the black as the hot and the white as the swithed wire, which is fine, unless you connect the white to the neutral bar in the easy wire box

UL does not approve equipment.

Equipment is

UL Listed

Or

UL Classified

http://www.wire-easy.com/demonstration.htm

THIS WAS DONE FOR DEMONSTRATION PURPOSES ONLY.

This Wire-easy girl wouldn't tell her weight but we are pretty sure you get the point.

"Don't Wire nuts,Wire-Easy"

[This message has been edited by Strobes (edited 03-09-2004).]

I was at the easy-wire site before it was a subject here. At that time it only said that the item was "Approved" and has since changed. Hey, they are listening to your comments.

Um, er, uh, I didn't exactly see that wire exiting out of the top of the switch box in the picture at first; it does look fine after all. That red on my face isn't sunburn...

I'm still sticking to my guns about the UL thing, though.

Sir arcsalot, you would loose that gun fight cowboy. I was at the Northbrook, IL. testing laboratory to personally watch the tests and over all it took 5 years for the setup work and testing to get there approval. That means you get the right to use there trademark on your product, listed means you pay to have a file that is kept on there records and it is updated quarterly. This is the strongest box I could build.

Wireeasy.

What does the sticker say that you now get to put on the product?

To eswets, It took 3 yrs to get a patent, 4 yrs to develope, design, and manufacture. It took 5 yrs to get a U.L. listing and it will take awhile longer to get people to try it, but I believe in it and I am extremely proud of it.

Which part of the NEC would govern the length of extension the conductors must maintain? Doesn't the sheathing of the non metallic cable seem to exceed the amount of length permitted by the NEC? In addition, if this apparatus was mounted flat would that compromise the UL listing? I would imagine that could be pretty bright if someone happened to drop a screwdriver or razor knife across those terminals. The box may be more practical with an integral disconnecting means.

Right from the UL Web Site.


http://www.ul.com/faq/terminology.html

Don't get me wrong, I would try the product my only point is I do not believe UL wants you to use the phrase UL approved.

For once, Bob and I see eye to eye!
There is no such thing as "UL approved".
If you've got a product to offer, you'd better have something good.
Otherwise, stay home.
(And if you're gonna try to sell it to us, you need to show us how it works, and why.
"Huh" is not the answer.

This is just another case of people that sign on to this Forum just to sell their product.


See Ya...S

LOL

I would bet that we are closer than it seems here.

And I did agree with you on the "Chi" (sp) building codes.

Wire-easy: I still have not seen an answer to my question.

How does device comply with the NEC provision that that states that you must have 6" of free length in a box?

To Wire-easy, Im not tring to knock the designer (assuming you and your team). If I had desigened this I would be proud of it also. But I could never use those on my jobs. I see some potential problems with it. Also I am not a fan of romex. The only place to use them is where they can be accesible, like basements and attics. I will never put a jbox in an attic. And what if you don't have a basement? Its great that you put all that time and effort into something. Well I guess if I was a fan of romex, I might have a different look on it. I guess those remarks are towards romex. And I don't intend to get anybody mad about MY OPINIONS.

first of all electure, I was invited to defend my product and I don't care if you like it or buy it.
Iwire, you are correct in that the lable can't say approved, it's listed as you can see, I was only trying to get the point across that U.L. approved the testing and gave it the OK. sorry about the error.
JCRicca, Safety is always important in our work, don't wire live if you don't have to.
Ryan J, The terminal box is not in the NEC yet, I am working on it for 2005.

Time to close this ...