Looks like greenlee or someone would make a "die" to screw on the end of a "auger typed" flexabit to sharpen it. After a few holes down walls filled with plaster in my 3 story rewire, the "worm" on my flexabit needs sharpening. I haven't tried my trusty
old 3 corner file yet, I don't want to really ruin it, but if I'm going to have to pay to much to have it professionally sharpened, I may as well buy a new one
For any that may have not run into it as of yet, plaster has a destroying effect on bits. Practically everyone I have now needs sharpening Oh well, I guess that's one of the casualties of a rewire If anyone has any expert sharpening advise, please let me know. I've took a week break from my rewire to do a service change, etc. I've just about got the upstairs done, getting ready for the adventure downstairs and basement
BTW, they ought to come up with a wood bit that is "plaster proof Steve.......

Steve,

I've got the same question, if you find the answer somewhere else please remember to share it with the rest of us here.

I have found a good use for the long dull bits though. They're good for snaking down through insulated walls because they don't coil up like a fish-tape would.

Bill

Not sure if this will do your type of bits, but try this site. www.drilldoctor.com

I've never personally used it, but I've heard it works well. Its also expensive to buy upfront, but might be worth it in the long run.

Sandro.

Spark,
I do a lot of rewires on old houses. One thing I learned early on was to order the Type"M" masonary flex bits for walls with plaster where the plaster is piled up as much as a foot thick on top of the firestops and bracing.
You can sharpen the wood bits but you might as well grind off the screw point first. If you use a drill doctor you need two people or else lean the end against a wall.
I wonder how hard it would be to cut the old bit off and weld a new one onto the rod?
Brian

We used to buy a little 'bow-tie' shaped file for sharpening the 'flukes'(?). For the worm I would just snip a bit off the end with my side-cutters. It would 'rough it up' enough to start the bit chewing.

I just used a flat file on the cutting face of the bit. Ot isn't as sharp as when I got it, but it still chews through the 2x4's pretty well. I have also used an angle grinder with one of those 4.5" flap sander discs (120 Grit) to sharpen my lawnmower blades...

About a year ago I emailed Greenlee asking for auger-bit sharpening instructions, and got a nice reply that—much to my surprise—Greenlee bits are to be no longer used when dull.




[This message has been edited by Bjarney (edited 09-13-2003).]

with a little practice, one can get fairly good with a 3-corner file......

I've had some success using a Dremel tool, but as Brian Winkle wrote, you might as well forget about the screw point--unless you have some way to re-thread it.

Bjarney:
Sort of like "Lifetime Guarantee." Once the item is no longer usable, it's lifetime has come to an end, and thus the guarantee

It is not hard to sharpen drill bits. The drill doctor seems to be a good product. Forget the screw unless you use a small triangular file and a lot of time and patience. A good grinder and practice will allow you to restore your drill bits.
Get to know some of the machinist in your area. Drill bit sharpening is something they do regularly.

sure,
touch them up until you totally trash them out, then send them to the sharpeners.

i gotta older guy that can bring back 90% of what i give him...

now the self feed bits, well i prefer the sort who's inner 'screw' is removable. Milwakee self feeds come with two screws each, once removed makes it easy to sharpen...