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Posted By: derater Help finding master/slave switch thread - 05/21/03 11:59 PM
Someone posted here about these switches and some problems w/ them.Does anyone know where it is?(yes I tried the 'search').
Posted By: Trumpy Re: Help finding master/slave switch thread - 05/22/03 12:51 AM
derater,
you're not talking about 3 way switches are you?. [Linked Image]
Posted By: derater Re: Help finding master/slave switch thread - 05/22/03 01:01 AM
No,Trumpy,they're supposedly able to switch individual fixtures from one (or more?) locations.Basement remodel guy sez they're what the owner wants and will provide;but I'm pretty sure that I saw a post here about them and that they may not wire up as usual.
Posted By: stamcon Re: Help finding master/slave switch thread - 05/22/03 01:43 AM
Derater, is this the thread about the X-10 system? https://www.electrical-contractor.net/ubb/Forum1/HTML/001114.html

[This message has been edited by stamcon (edited 05-21-2003).]
Is this the one? : [i][b]Fancy Lightolier Dimmer[/b][/i]
Posted By: Obsaleet Re: Help finding master/slave switch thread - 05/22/03 03:03 AM
How about decora home controls from Leviton?

Obsaleet
I posted the "Fancy Lightolier Dimmer" thread a while back. They were strange, but worked great. Lutron makes a similar control called "Maestro", They work about same and are easiler to wire. The only thing funny about them is that the common color is dif on the master from the remote and the travelers must be kept on the same wires throughout.
derater,

In my experience with several different manufacturers systems, simple 3-way roughin wiring works fine. Bring the line and neutral to one end of the switching, and connect the luminaire(s) to the far end. The device hookup, however, is very unlike a 3-way.

When the multi-location dimmer modules are installed, one of the travelers is used for the electronics in the remotes to talk with the electronics in master (the master is where the dimming actually happens). The other traveler is turned into one long switched leg that connects to each remote to provide power for the remote's signalling electronics.

The master has to go on the line or the load end. . .it can't be in the middle. The master is the one with the most lights, on most models, so, putting it where it is most aesthetically effective will likely take extra effort.

Derating the master is required if the master's fins are removed to gang additional units.

The one trick that helps a lot on some models, when installing the hardware, is to tag the travelers of any 4-way locations while roughing in. Mark the location each set of travelers goes to or comes from.

Al
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