The thread on \"Plastic or Steel?\" got me thinking of a Q I only seem to remember at work.

When dealing with plastic boxes, especially multi-ganged ones (2 gangs+) how do you insure that the boxes (or more importantly, the screw holes) remain plumb and square even after the drywallers have "had their way" with them?

Obviously, the coverplates are only going to go on if the two (or more) devices are parallel with each other and level with each other. I know of no parallelogram cover plates.

For this reason, I may opt to use steel boxes for multigangs even on the next bid job I do. Less headaches.

Are the fibre-reinforced boxes any better?

This is also a problem with single gang phone, cable, and blank plates that connect directly to the box sans device.

Any tips?

[This message has been edited by sparky66wv (edited 01-13-2003).]

IMHO fibre-reinforced boxes are better for not flexing

Even with steel multigang box if they get installed out of level its tough to fix after.

3 or more gangs and we put a support from stud to stud behind box sometimes a caddy part, sometimes Job fab. in a pinch.

iwire, Thanks, I kinda figured they would be better. My supplier will have to order them though.


Pauluk, you're rubbing off on me!



[This message has been edited by sparky66wv (edited 01-13-2003).]

We seldom have a problem with the non-metallic boxes being out level on square on trim out. We use P&S boxes and they seem to be pretty stable. Carlon boxes are very flimsy and I can see having this problem with them. I haven't uses any of the fibre type boxes in quite a while. Most of them have a smaller cubic in capacity but they also tend to break very easy. Many times on trim out I would find several boxes broken from the either the insulation or drywall contractor hitting it. If you find one of you phone or TV boxes is out just us a decora style jack which allows you some adjustment.

Curt

My house is so old, the boxes look crooked because they are plumb and square. The walls are crooked

Seriously, though, the original boxes (black in color, and seemingly made from something that is bulletproof, actually just good old heavy steel) were mounted with a piece of wood from stud to stud, across the bottom and the top (not the thickness a full stud, though). They were screwed in with wood screws, one on top and one on bottom, diagonally.

They are very difficult to remove. Keep in mind, these are the "old work" type of boxes.

In resi,I will use the gangable steel boxes (for anything over 2 gang)mounted to a 2x4 ran between the studs.If you install it level,it will be level come trim time.It makes it alot harder for the non-english speaking,illegal immigrant.here for the money only,ba@##rd drywallers ,that are so prevailant in this area,to screw up.

Sorry about the rant .

I saw advertised in some catalogue (I think it's MCM Electronics) about a metal rack that fits between two studs. You attach your boxes to that rack so they're all straight. But I think it's for single boxes...don't know if gangable boxes will work.

I haven't had any trouble with these so I have never given it much thought. I wouldn't think the extra time involved in using metal boxes would be worth it.

I glue foam insulation behind the boxes. glue to the wall and the box.

Hey Virgil:
I seem to remember Carlon including a steel bracket with the 3, 4, & 5 gang plastic boxes.

We don't do much resi nowadays, but I do remember what you're saying being a PITA.

Metal boxes, 3 gang & bigger.

John

You may want to try the Superblue boxes from Carlon. They have a heavy ring around the open face to add rigidity.

On gangable metal I always used a set of cruise? (sp) bars over the old work ears that were turned backwards so the box projected out to the surface.

I use metal gangable for anything over a 3 gang residential. One reason is if we get hit with a change, we don't have to take the whole box apart to make a bigger of smaller box. Another reason is its hard to find deep 3 and 4 gang nail ons, so we gang up 3 1/2 metal for the extra cubes.