Any thoughts on the best method of beefing up my new vans suspension. I've looked at helper springs, adding a spring, and air shocks. I don't need much but am riding low in the rear and don't know what will happen if I attach a trailer.

I had a 98 Chevy Express 2500 I used for servicework... Loaded to the gills with full rolls of #6 and smaller, MC cable, conduit, boxes, tools, etc... I had 1 ton springs added and a set of Monroe's re-flex shocks and it handled the weight a lot better. I had some pretty stout "E" rated Kelly Safari's on there too.

I managed to pull a trailer with a Bobcat and all the trimmings from Glendale to San Diego and back... The tail end sagged theatrically, but it never felt loose. Passing took a weeks notice at anytime though.

Do you know how much weight you got in the van right now ?? because the way you describing i am little condering that you may be over the limit of the vechile weight limit. if you don't mind telling us what kind of van maybe we can guide ya some idea.

Merci, Marc

Randy I just want to understand you saying this is a 2500 or 2500 HD ??

becasue i know i used have a G2500 before it only rated for 8600 lbs max but have plates registed for 10K [ my state don't have 9k plate so i bumped up one size over ]

but for fuel mpg it kinda suck espcally with towing with the 350 gasser i only get about 8-9 MPG ave without trailer it will get about 12 the best.

Merci, Marc

Perhaps taking the vehicle to a spring shop and see what they say may be the way to go?
FWIW, I have had similar issues like that in the past with personal vehicles and extra weight from natural gas cylinders added when my parents converted 2 of their vehicles.
A trip to the spring shop, an extra leaf spring added and the problem was solved.

A.D

If you are overloading it, be prepared to change axle seals. Springs may keep it level but it still could be overloaded.

There's also the matter of tires. Overloaded tires .... well, tap the sidewall, and you lose the tire. For those who don't know, here's a real basic primer:

1/2 ton ... like F-150 .... passenger truck tires OK

3/4 ton ... like F-250 .... ought to be 6 ply

1 ton ... like F-350 .... ought to be 10 ply.

If you get helper springs .... I've had those, and they did help ... but you ought to 'go up' with your tires as well.


My general observation is that an ("average") electrician's truck ought to be a 3/4 ton truck or van; no need for dual rear tires or 4 wheel drive. As large an engine as you can get is a plus.

Like said before go to a spring shop. Go out of your way to find one that specializes in truck springs. Mine was not overweight but the springs were worn out. They customized the springs for my truck. It has 2 more leafs on one side in the rear. I thought the load is balanced between sides but I guess not. I also changed the coil springs in the front to heavy duty. I wished I went with extra heavy duty.

I have weighed my truck a few times to make sure I'm not overloading it. The last time I was about 10K and the GVWR is 12K. So I know I'm still good to put extra equipment, material, and a generator from time to time.

I also put a good set of Monroe truck shocks around. It rides like a Cadillac. Stay away from air shocks. Shocks are not ment to support the weight of a vehicle (not to be confused with struts on cars). They are only to dappen bouncing. With coilover or air shocks you are tring to hold the vehicle up by the shock mounts. That's how you break parts.

Have someone make sure everything is tight on the steering, suspension, & bearings.

I try to get tires with the highest weight rating but am limited to whats available and cost. Make sure you comepare weight rating when tire shopping. The 1st one the tire guy offers may not be the best choice. Ask if they have heavier tires. More plies and heavier weight rating means the sidewalls stay straight not bowed way out under a load. More plys in a tire means it can handle small cuts and punctures without blowing out.

Get an alignment. Have the alignment done with any new parts you need installed. Changing most anything can throw off the alignment. Have the truck loaded like normal with a 1/2 tank of fuel. Weight in the truck affects ride height. Ride height affects alignment. A low ride height will pull the camber in (top of the tires).

Keep in mind trucks have weight ratings for a reason. It is not just how much the spring can hold. Heavier trucks have stronger breaks, rear ends, bearings, sway bar, frame, more lug nuts, rims that hold heavier tires, better engines, stronger tranies, more cooling, etc. An overloaded truck is unsafe.

3/4 Ton (GM 20, 2500, or ford 250) should be the minimum for a loaded electrical truck. I never seen a 1/2 tom truck work out well. I would recomend a 1 Ton unless you don't plan on hauling much.

springs are the way to go, shocks are not meant to hold the vehicle up. Helpers are alright, but if you can afford it have 1 or 2 leaves added to the springs on the truck it is a much better answer. if you havent already bought the van look for one with heavy duty suspension, chevy HD, ford super duty etc. Most of the time these trucks have bigger brakes, auto trans coolers, engine oil coolers, power steering oil coolers, and trailering packages already on them. I have a Chevy 2500HD with 6.0L gas engine, it will pass every thing but a filling station, gets about 10 mpg with an 18 foot trailer carrying a 6000lb generator, but has no trouble going up hill, down hill, or anywhere else. I guess its like a mule if you want it to work you got to feed it. I will buy another one like it when the time comes.

GOOGLE TIMBRENS. Timbrens are the way to go i have them on mine works better then any spring/shock combination you can come up with.

I have a pair of Rancho 1500 LB overloads that I have used on two F-250s. Easy to install, they just fit over your existing leafs. Using a block over the axle and four really long U bolts, they pull up on and assist your sagging springs. Plus you can adjust them by tightening or loosening the U bolts.

A few points, like the others said, get weighed to make sure you don't exceed your GVWR. 10 plys are a must. And finally, when you have settled in on your normal weight load and your spring tension, have the front end aligned. Any time you change the ride height, it also affects the front end alignment.

Is anyone using a dodge sprinter?? I've seen a few in use with Electricians. Excellant gas(diesel actually) mileage, not sure how much they can carry weight wise?? I'm in a 3500 extended cab GMC with a reading body and I love it except for the 12 MPG. I drive many miles a year so my next vehicle has to improve on that 12 mpg

Wow! Thanks for all of the good feedback guys! I now feel informed enough info to tackle this thing.

On my E350, I will be adding airbags very soon. Even without an onboard compressor, you can install them with just a schrader valve and pump them up accordingly when you need it.

I'm grossing 10k# these days. Yes, technically overloaded according to the door sticker, but my H-rated (16ply) tires can take it.

Also, SRW trucks don't get routine checks around here so long as you're rolling down the road without a saggy butt.

What do you guys carry? I keep my weight down as much as possible. Longer van life and better fuel milage. I have my stock trimmed down to just service call stock and the basic stuff I use.
On larger jobs I have crates for new work or commercial work and load them as needed.

I don't load and unload for particular jobs. Basically, everything comes with me all the time. I am completely mobile though with inverter and makeshift desk/workbench.

My best guesstimate is my rig weighs in around 8000# empty (i.e. empty shelves and toolbox).