I have tried some of the new poke-in wire connectors made by Wago. They are rated at 20A and offer several configurations accepting up to 12awg. It speeds things up but I'm a sidecutter and wirenut make up guy. I don't understand why you can't poke a #12 on a recept but you can use these connectors on a 20A circuit. In some counties around here you can't even poke in the back of a switch for residential. Has anyone tried these yet or have a track record.

I got some samples of the Ideal version and like the concept. I used a few in small boxes where I couldn't get into good to work. If you use tan twisters with a drill for most wire nuts I don't see a significant time savings and the cost is about double. I do like them for limited uses.

I have considered using this type of connector but only in low current applications such as replacing a ballast. I have seen too many failures at push in connections (15 and 20A)on receptacles to justify the use of these connectors in outlet boxes.

I was going to use the Wago connector for residential,but was advised not to by our AHJ(old time master electrician)because of the possibility of the clutch contacts deforming under continuous load(up to 16 amps)/heating effects on a 20 amp ckt.I thought he had a valid point so I used what I have always used,good wire nuts.

Chris

I have used the ideal one a couple of times but have found wirenuts much quicker.
According to the listing they are rated 20Amps Right ?
But I suppose these will go the same route as the 20 amp back-wired receptacles.
-Mark-

I have been usinfg these for about 2 years now with absolutely no callbacks or problems. The difference in these Wago connectors and the switches and receptacles is that Wago uses a spring steel retention spring and a tinned copper contact whereas the switches and receptacles use a brass retention spring and brass contact. I use Wago connectors based on the same principal on circuits up to 100A on motor controller cabinets. Even if the cabinet heats up, shakes, wires get pulled, or the conductors hop due to inrush currents they stay as tight as when I put them in.
I don't use them on stranded wire due to marginal success, but give the 224-101 and 224-112 lighting connectors a try. They're so much faster than wire nuts for fine stranded wire.
Also note that they're all UL Listed for 20A service and can be used with alum. wire with the addition of Wago's "Alu-Plus" compound...

The clamp in these connectors is totaly different than the type in receptacles.

For example the receptacle style is limited to #14AWG solid, while these "wirenuts" are rated all the way down to #18AWG solid or #16 stranded.

[This message has been edited by JBD (edited 04-25-2002).]

I still haven't used this type of "wire nut, I've been "sold" on good ol' B-caps for a while... and after seeing my share of burned up recp's due to the "speed-wire" installations, I was VERY sceptical when the guy at the counter showed them to me. But as has already been said by someone, the "Wall-Nuts" I looked at, and even went so far as to take apart, do indeed seem to be far better than any recp "speed-wire" ever dreamed of. The spring doesn't take the current, the plate it presses the wire to does.
I still like a good twist on the wires with the ol' linesman pliers, and a wire nut best, but I'll give the "Wall-Nuts" a good second for looking like they work well.

Still on the first container of Ideals, no problems yet.

I've been using them for the low current apps.(ballasts), and for capping off wires.
I'm still skeptical about anything that just bites on a conductor in just one spot.
Given some time, although their track record so far seems to be OK, there is no contact from one conductor to the other, besides the flimsy metal inside the "whacko".
I know I'm an old f**t, but I still think they're junk.

Anyone ever MEG one of these things to see how they compare to a wirenut?

A few years ago, I had a service call for a recessed canister light that had quit working. It was a bear to get to as well, and one of these connectors was the problem.

I'm stuck in my ways though...

We just used thousands of the Ideal brand connectors on 277V fluorescents, changing out ballasts. The office building spec'd them and they were very quick and easy to use. They've been using them for awhile now, and I don't think there have been problems yet.

Tester: AVO Megger BM21
Item:Ideal Wing Nut #30-452 Red
Voltage:1024VDC @ 1 min
Insulation value:374G ohms

Item:Wago 773-106 Push Connector
Voltage: 1025VDC @ 1 min
Insulation value:427G ohms

Alltests are measured from internal wire connection point to external of insulation cap.

in the next day or so I'll publish restance values across two wires in the connector

Stay Tuned...