Whats the easy way to remove the knockouts in a panel. Seems like they`re getting tough to remove and the wrong one seems to break on occasion.Is their a secrete that I have yet to discover.happened today knocking out 3/4 hole and the 1" poped out.Maybe the screw driver and side cutters are the problem??Operator error possible but surely I`m not the only one.
I've never found a real good solution to this problem.I have noticed that some brands of equipment are more prone to this trouble.
If in doubt, I'll drill the KO out with a stepper bit. I've also learned to keep at least one pair of reducing washers on the truck for one step down sizing starting with 2 1/2" x 2" down to 3/4" x 1/2".
All I can add is be very careful and go easy at it. Usually works for me. No other magic tricks i know of.
Practice makes perfect, but patience is the key.
Patience, and I also use a small (8", I think) pair of bolt cutters to cut sections of bent/pried KO sections, and the little nub that gets left on occaision...
A variety of reducing washers in stock (and a few grounding bushings) makes things better when the inevitable happens.
I've tried this trick once or twice and it seemed to work:
-duct tape off the larger ko you don't want to remove around the sides
-with a very sharp bit, drill a pilot hole in the center of the ko you want to remove
-then using a hole saw, gently drill out the size you want
the thing is not to force it.
I really prefer cabinets w/o ko's if I can get 'em. When I did industrial I would specify them. It makes it so much easier when laying out your cabinet, and I think it looks a whole lot better too!
-Good Luck!
I was taught 30 years ago how to remove KO's from panels and it has never failed to work. I, on occasion, have used other methods because I could not find the tool I use. Once I fought with the KO I found the tool.
Dykes. I don't know what to call them besides dykes. I guess wire cutters the pointed kind. I first knock out the smallest ko then take my dykes and cut each side of the next ring midway between the Die nub. Then just grab the Die nub with the dykes and waggle off each half of the ring. This works every time all the time. Any other method creates all those problems.
Try it you'll like it.
Tom
Joe,
EC&M Magazine had a feature about 15 years ago that described the "pliers & screwdriver" method. I have witnessed a few different (frustrating) methods since, but this method, along with some patience, seems to be the quickest and most reliable.
Seems I recall the panel yesterday had 3 ties Today I`ll try the dikes and cut the ring as Gibson said well gotta get at it.
I've found that once the 1/2" hole is out I use my lineman's and wiggle each side that is attached to the box... seems to always work for me.
Gibson's way has worked best for me over the years. Although, I usually use tin snips.
The original date is worth noting...it's not exactly a new question.
Sorta off topic, but this one is interesting, too.
http://www.nema.org/docuploads//5BC1956C-F646-4607-8FAA067F8FDCD592/bull88.pdf