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#90937 12/18/04 12:23 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 494
M
Member
Hi,
I used to just stub out a 10/2 w grnd at the water heater and bond the cold water.

What is the best way to do it now?

Do I need to run flex over to the heater itself?

Do I need to bond the hot and cold together back to the panel?

Thanks for any comments.

-regards

Greg

2017 / 2014 NEC & Related Books and Study Guides
#90938 12/18/04 12:39 PM
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 9,644
G
Member
They want to see a disconnect around here and that is usually where the electrician stops, although he still "owns" the wire going to the water heater if there is a violation. I see them run in everything from just Romex to FMC, MC or SealTite.
I haven't seen metal water pipe in so long I tend to forget about bonding


Greg Fretwell
#90939 12/18/04 12:45 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 494
M
Member
Hi,
yes that is why I am asking because what used to be ok may not be the norm nowadays...I havent heard of a disco being required at the heater itself. This is not a code requirement is it?

I will probably just use my old standard...stub out the 10/2 wgrnd and use a romex connector toconnect it to the heater itself.

See any problem with that?

Most everything around here is Copper.

-regards

Greg

#90940 12/18/04 12:53 PM
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,044
Tom Offline
Member
Greg,

A disconnect may be required, depending on where the water heater is located in relationship to the panel that feeds it. A water heater is an appliance, so check out 422.31(B)

Tom


Few things are harder to put up with than the annoyance of a good example.
#90941 12/18/04 12:59 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,391
I
Moderator
Almost everything we wire needs a disconnecting means within sight.

There are some exceptions and also sometimes ways around it with breaker locks.

As Tom pointed out check out 422.31(B) for water heater.


Bob Badger
Construction & Maintenance Electrician
Massachusetts
#90942 12/18/04 01:07 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 494
M
Member
Hi,
The water heater certainly exceeds the 300w limit. The circuit breaker is NOT within sight but it can be locked in the open position with a breaker lock-out.

Should I just put a non fused disco at all water heaters and forget it? What is the norm anymore?

Thanks for the code ref.

-regards

Greg

#90943 12/18/04 03:24 PM
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 269
E
Member
Breaker locks are approved here and are cheaper than a disco. [Linked Image]


John
#90944 12/18/04 09:04 PM
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,044
Tom Offline
Member
If I was the AHJ on an inspection for a water heater, I would accept a breaker padlock device manufactured by the same company that made the breaker/panelboard.

Many mobile/manufactured homes have an electric water heater & every one that i have looked at has a padlock attachment on the breaker. This makes HUD happy & so a similar installation in a dwelling should satisfy any AHJ you deal with, but it is always best to ask if you aren't sure.

You could use one of those $8 pull out air conditioner disconnects just to CYA, but IMO, you'd be wasting $8 & some time.

Tom


Few things are harder to put up with than the annoyance of a good example.

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