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#87744 04/10/04 10:00 AM
I am installing some L.V. puck lights on the bottom of some overhead kitchen cabinets. The receptacles for the plug-in xfmr's are located in the top interior of the cabinet. After looking at article 411 I realize I can not run the puck light leads into the wall cavity at the top of the cabinet and back out under the cabinet per 411.4. My question is how do you guy's hide this wiring mess and still meet NEC requirements?

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#87745 04/10/04 10:15 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,391
Your right and this subject comes up a lot, NM is about the only option for you.


Bob Badger
Construction & Maintenance Electrician
#87746 04/10/04 11:05 AM
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 615
I drill a small hole at the front of the cabinet where it can be hidden by the cabinet stiles (sp?). So your wire is hidden at the front inside corner of the cabinet. Then just run it up to your plug-in transformer.

We use the kind that has the preformed connector, so it beats having to cut it and then re-splice it up top.

Also it makes it easier for the rough.... just rough your plug in and worry about the rest after cabinets are hung.

#87747 04/10/04 12:23 PM
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,457
Why people still use these I will never understand.

#87748 04/10/04 01:26 PM
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 717
Scott, I have installed probably 200 of the puck lights in my career. I have never had a problem with a single one of them so I am not sure I know what is the fuss all about. I have seen in other posts some conjecture about thier being cheaply constructed, but does anyone have hard data on the safety of said item?. P.S. There is a product called nice duct which is a plastic surface l.v. raceway that is about 3/8" wide and deep that has a hinged side so it is accesable. It comes in various colors. I buy it from ADI. It works well to cover the low voltage cable where it runs thru the cabinet , just don't try to run this type of cable into a wall or ceiling.

#87749 04/10/04 01:28 PM
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,143
I used 110's on my last job with these.

I usually run the cords on the backside of the lip underneath the cabinets, and drill holes to pass the cords through between edges. Bring all the cords up into the cabinet with the controller/xformer.

But unless your cords are listed for in-wall, that, or possibly (if the cabinets are mounted on plates/boards on the wall) in the void behind them, but that's more for new work.

#87750 04/10/04 03:49 PM
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,457
I have come across more than my fair share of pucks where the socket has been totally cooked and will not hold a lamp anymore. The look on the customers face is priceless when I tell them I cannot replace the puck because the installation does not meet code.(lamp cord through the walls) The lamps burn out rather quickly and they are installer unfreindly. They also do not produce a decent amount of light. There are far better choices available when it comes to undercabinet lighting.

#87751 04/10/04 07:29 PM
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 615

What do you recommend using for undercabinet lights?

I have run across different quality pucks, depending on manufacturer. The ones we get from our supplier (manufacturer escapes me at the moment), I think are good quality.

#87752 04/11/04 10:49 AM
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,457
Go to the "Cabinet Lighting" section
This is a good quality and dependable fixture. I have installed hundreds over the pst couple of years. I installed some in a kitchen showroom that run 6 days a week 8 am to 5 pm. They have been in for over two years and are still going strong! Very easy to install.

[This message has been edited by Electricmanscott (edited 04-11-2004).]

#87753 04/11/04 11:39 PM
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 615
hey, thanks for the link. I'm going to look into those.

But let me ask, what would you use for a glass-door cabinet with glass shelves?

(I'll take a guess at the light sticks that mount to the stiles and run vertically)

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