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#87547 03/18/04 10:48 PM
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 806
Another vote for the 6 3/8" hole saw. The one I have is a carbide grit edge, as opposed to traditional saw teeth. The circular grit edge has a lot less tendency to grab or skate across the ceiling than the adjustable cutters do. No good on wood or metal, but does a GREAT job on sheetrock and ceiling tiles. Price wasn't all that outrageous, at around $25.

Before I bought it, I was using a regular sheetrock saw, which worked ok, but was slow. Bought the hole saw when I got a job that involved 40+ remodel cans, and it paid for itself in time savings the first day... [Linked Image]

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#87548 03/19/04 01:09 AM
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 687
I use a sharp drywall saw. I have the one that folds up and uses sawsall blades. I bend the tip slightly. That way when I'm crancking out those circles my blade does not slip out on the down stroke and nick the cieling on the up stroke. That happens to me after cutting a lot of holes especially if I'm reaching out far. They don't make as much dust as a power tool. With a box undernieth the mess is not too bad.

Someone gave me a Greenlee adjustable hole cutter for Christmas but it broke before the 1st hole was done.

I seen the hole saws go out of control on the drywall before so I don't want to practice on the customers homes.

A roto zip with a circle cutter might work nice. I don't have the skill to use one free hand.


#87549 03/19/04 10:07 PM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 114
I have some kind of compass type thing I use. I believe its made by Wal-Borard Tools. You tun the knob and set the diameter you want. The spike goes on the midpoint and you turn it to score the sheetrock. Then I use a keyhole saw to cut out the circle along the mark scored by the tool. I've had too many hole saws lose control and go for a quick dance across the ceiling, tearing up the ceiling, so i try to avoid them.

#87550 03/20/04 10:33 PM
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 4,291
sparked, You've got the tool that the "good old boy" drywallers use. They actually work great in conjunction with a hammer.
Some thing that helps a little bit with the holesaws and drywall; Run them in reverse slowly with a very light touch initially, and make sure you keep it squared to the work surface. You wont dull your holesaw as fast, either

[This message has been edited by electure (edited 03-20-2004).]

#87551 03/22/04 09:25 PM
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 79
"...The one I have is a carbide grit edge, as opposed to traditional saw teeth."

NJwirenut, I just bought one of those over the weekend and used it today with an 18V. Dewalt battery drill. The grit holesaw, brand name was Remgrit I think, worked great. It works really well if you let the holesaw seat at the bottom of the arbor instead of leaving a gap while using the pins, it tended to wobble too much that way. The Greenlee adjustable cutter was horrible when I experimented with it, I wouldn't risk using it on a finished ceiling.

BTW, the Remgrit may be made by Remington. The package had the same familiar green and yellow coloring as Remington ammo boxes.


[This message has been edited by cavo148 (edited 03-22-2004).]

#87552 03/30/04 04:37 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 62
SteveMc Offline OP
Thanks for all the suggestions. Since these were cheap can lights (HO provided) they required a 5 3/8" hole and had a tiny trim (no room for error). I chose to go with the adjustable Ideal(R) hole cutter which is designed with two cutter blades on an arbor. Big mistake. It only adjusted in 1/2" increments and cuts a sloppy hole. The darn thing hung while cutting one hole and caused my drill to slam into the top of a cabinet and bust the trim. I'll have to reimburse the HO to have it repaired (I should send the bill to Ideal(R)). You can bet this is the last time I'll use the Ideal(R) cutter or install cheap can lights.

#87553 03/31/04 06:33 AM
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 4,291
The darn thing hung while cutting one hole and caused my drill to slam into the top of a cabinet


#87554 05/09/04 08:50 AM
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,143
In case anyone needs more info:

(Check p. 9 of the PDF for Remgrit hole saws)

BTW, my foreman taught me the trick of using a carbide grit blade in my sawzall for drywall/plaster work. Beats changing wood blades every 5 minutes, and the wall doesn't flake apart on you.

[This message has been edited by DougW (edited 05-09-2004).]

#87555 05/09/04 06:19 PM
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 259
I vote for the Roto Zip and a shop vac. It can't be beat and is very easy to use. I use it for every hole I cut, old work ect.

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