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#8432 03/21/02 07:03 PM
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 545
A
aldav53 Offline OP
Member
The best way to correct aluminum wiring in a home is to either go around and tighten all the connections (maybe using corrosion inhibiter too), or wirenut a copper pigtail to all the terminations. Any other ideas?


The Golden Rule - "The man with the gold makes the rule"
#8433 03/21/02 09:15 PM
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 582
R
Ron Offline
Member
Amp has a crimp connector that is great. http://catalog.tycoelectronics.com/TE/bin/TE.Connect?C=10914&F=0&M=CINF&N=2&LG=1&I=13&RQS=C~10914^P~29242^M~PROP^N~1^G~G


Ron
#8434 03/21/02 09:32 PM
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 806
N
Member
I'd go with the AMP connector, as well.

The only wirenuts rated for use on Cu/Al splices are the Ideal #65, and they don't have the greatest safety record, regardless of the claims of the manufacturer:
http://www.inspect-ny.com/aluminum.htm

#8435 03/21/02 10:09 PM
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 4,081
Likes: 3
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You can use CO/ALR Devices too. Boxes can get pretty full with those Wirenuts and tails.

Bill


Bill
#8436 03/21/02 10:17 PM
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 60
J
Member
everytime I encounter aluminum wiring, I stongly suggest getting rid of it as soon as possible. The only time I touch it is during a service upgrade. other then that, sorry I can not do what you ask of me with out running a new circuit. All aluminum wiring I have ever seen is cloth wrapped I dont know the years it was changed to plastic or copper for that matter. [Linked Image] But that is more dangerous to me then a Federal Pacific panel. [Linked Image]

James

#8437 03/22/02 12:02 AM
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 597
E
Member
GFI receptacles, light fixture and dimmers have no CO/ALR equivalent.


Al Hildenbrand
#8438 03/22/02 12:16 AM
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,056
R
Member
Unless things have changed, Amps tooling is, in many cases prohibitively expensive. They do not sell the crimper, they only rent it.
I understand the problems ascribed to Ideal 65s, but I have used them and am comfortable with the result.
JMichael,
Are you sure you are not confusing tinned copper with aluminum? All aluminum branch ckt. wiring I have encountered was manufactured during the 60s & early 70s and resembles present-day NM cable.

[This message has been edited by Redsy (edited 03-22-2002).]

#8439 03/22/02 01:30 AM
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 4,081
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Redsy,

I think JM is referring to Aluminum SE Cable (with the cloth covering)

Bill


Bill
#8440 03/22/02 11:36 AM
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 597
E
Member
Aldav53,

As I understand it, there are only three methods left that we can use on copper/aluminum splices in the #12 and #10 gauge branch circuit situation.

1. Little split bolts with Al/Cu rating. (very bulky after taping - shrink tube?) I don't recommend it.

2. Amp's COPALUM Safety Connector. Last I knew it required factory training of the installer with certification before one could buy the connectors. It IS a great product, just too controlled for my needs.

3. Ideal's Twister 65 (listed for Al to Cu only - not Al to Al)

It's important to note that all other wirenuts dropped the Al/Cu listing back in the late Eighties. With or without oxidation inhibitor, regular wirenuts are not listed to connect Aluminum to Copper.

Tightening the terminal screws on old devices doesn't address the problem created by the screw and the wire having markedly different rates of expanding when heated. The Aluminum expands faster, it crushes itself under the screw. CO/ALR terminal screws are made to minimize this.

The old aluminum (manufactured pre-1975) breaks after time where nicked. Care must be taken to avoid that.

I agree with Redsy, my choice of connecter is the Twister #65. I, too, have had good results. I do, however, really pay attention to what I'm doing when I install them. . .I don't hurry or just slap them on.

Al


Al Hildenbrand

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