ECN Forum Forums General Topics of the Trade General Discussion Area 3-way Pilot Light switch with pathetic lifespan

I'm on my 3rd Hubbell 1203PL 3way pilot light toggle.

(light on - load on)

Honest to God the pilot light only seems to last 8 months. That's terrible. I'm going back to put in a Leviton switch this time and see what happens. I put the meter on there and checked everything in there and it's wired correctly. Nothing funky going on.

Anyone have a successful history with these?

Are you using it for the right load?

Motor loads are hard on switches and they need to be rated for the inrush.

I see from the product datasheet: http://www.hubbellcatalog.com/wiring/section-c-datasheet.asp?FAM=Switches&PN=HBL1203PL
this switch is rated for a 1/2 HP motor at 120 volts.

I see on the schematic, a supplemental ground connection on the pilot.

I have a couple of those ( of the single pole leviton variety) on a furnace and power vent water heater circuit and have noticed the indicators have become really dim, but still visible. Mind you they have been on almost 24/7 for the past 8-10 years.
Perhaps the hubbell have had a defective run of switches or the little neon indicators?

A.D

From the schematics, the indicator bulbs appear to be neon bulbs. I was under the impression that the common neon bulb was good for 20,000 hours of life.

Geez this is connected to a light. A plain old incandescent lightbulb. This switch is a real disappointment.

I might change it to a standard 3way and add a 120v LED with a flange right over the switch. LEDs have a crazy long lifespan.

Glad you posted.At $65 each,I was looking bad.I have same problem,short lifespan.Next is led pilot light

Bob O.84,Pa.15330

Use a LED, run it at 3 mA and problem is sorted for life.
I use a 66 k.Ohms 2 watt resistor for 230 Volts ( 2 x 33 K ohms 1 watt in series )
Then a 1 N914 diode antiparrallel with the LED.
For anyone knowing basic soldering and tidy working it is a easy to fit in any switch with perfect results. also no heating in the resistors.

For 110 Volts design the circuit to run at about 3 mA which is ample for a high efficiency led. a single 33 or 39 k Ohm 2 watt resistor will suffice.

I have found neons with the incorrect series resistors which means excessive current and a short lifespan.

Above are the schematics how to build the circuit and one application where we use them in the substations for the streetlight and hotwater pilots.

Where:
D1 is 1N4007 diode
D2 is 1N914 or equivalent
D3 is LED,3000, or 5000 Milicandela
R 1 and R 2 series voltage dropping resistors.


Hope they post OK.

Good luck with it

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[This message has been edited by pauluk (edited 10-28-2006).]

Isn't series diode D1 somewhat superfluous, unless the LED being used has an exceptionally low reverse-voltage rating?