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#71103 10/22/06 09:10 AM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 187
HCE727 Offline OP
Member
Is there any kind of a crimp, that is legal, for a run of K&T, that some one tapped off of.

[This message has been edited by HCE727 (edited 10-22-2006).]

[This message has been edited by HCE727 (edited 10-22-2006).]


Hank
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#71104 10/22/06 09:16 AM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 706
T
Member
I prefer the remove-and-replace method. Cleaning electrical messes is my favorite job. I don't avoid it, I embrace it.

Dave

#71105 10/22/06 10:16 AM
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,511
Likes: 1
T
Member
Solder and tape... I think there is a step by step manual with pictures somewhere on this board.

#71106 10/22/06 01:19 PM
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,876
E
e57 Offline
Member
Quote
394.56 Splices and Taps.
Splices shall be soldered unless approved splicing devices are used. In-line or strain splices shall not be used.
That counts out butt splices, or Wago type connectors....

This is a little article about crimp failures in appliances , but for this type of crimp connector used in a wall, the results would be about the same = not 100% reliable, and dangerous IMO. Sure you are allowed, and in a few situations required to have irreversable connections in a few locations like in grounding, but those connections and conductors are much large, and to be done right require tons of pressure to mash the connector and wire together. I haven't seen any made well enough to trust in the wall of a home for wire sizes 14-10. Most are made for automotive and appliance purposes.

Some places/inspectors would allow you to use a wire-nut type connector. Others wont... But they too have moderate failure rates, and methods of failure (arching) that would make me think twice of using one concealed inside a wall. As it would be inaccessible behind a finish. If I use one on K&T, it'll be in a box...

But mechanical splices done right, with clean metal to metal contact, and sealed in solder, and cleaned again, have been able to last without abuse or failure for over one hundred years! The only times I have seen ones that have failed, failed for reasons: dirty conductors, poorly or unsoldered connections, left over flux, or long term over-load of the circuit.

You can find more of my opinion on the matter here: http://www.markhellerelectric.com/wusplice.pdf

Some more here: https://www.electrical-contractor.net/ubb/Forum1/HTML/007216.html

Do a search in the general discussion area and you'll find many more.

[This message has been edited by e57 (edited 10-22-2006).]


Mark Heller
"Well - I oughta....." -Jackie Gleason
#71107 10/22/06 02:38 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 187
HCE727 Offline OP
Member
Thank You "E", you answered my question.


Hank

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