ECN Forum Forums General Topics of the Trade General Discussion Area outlet boxes in basements with furring strips

How do you fellas go about installing outlets in a basement wall. The set up is furring strips nailed to the cinder block then paneling or sheetrock installed. There is only a 3/4" space between the rock and block. I have seen those arlington boxes that go into the void in cinder block but I am worried about a hole that large in the block because of water. The sheetrock is not bad it would be an 1 1/4" box but the paneling is only 1/8" thick.

Cutting into the block with a side grinder is the easiest way. You can also fish that wire through the block into a deep box and avoid that "physical damage" problem. Water shouldn't be an issue since block is not waterproof but thermal insulation/draft stopping may be an issue. The mounting pad usually has a 1/2" offset but if you shim it to the block with 3/8 ply instead of nailing to the furring it works out right for 1/8 panelling.

I generally just run conduit down the wall and mount the boxes on the surface. It really doesn't look all that bad, and sure beats the heck out of trying to cut cinder block 3/4"-1" behind the surface of the wall and through an opening the size of a single-gang box. And once you factor in the time it takes to fish wire through the block - IF the block isnt' filled with concrete - installing the conduit is much more cost effective.

Kevin

You might be able to install shallow Wiremold boxes, I believe they're 15/16" so you might be able to have them install the paneling over the boxes with only a slight bulge... Just a suggestion

We usually blow out the block with a demo hammer making room for a 4" sq box and plaster ring.

I don't think wire mold boxes are listed for flush installation.

We do the same as Bob does and if the blocks are hollow we just use a hammer.

We use one of the boxes below or one simlar.





If the furring strip doesn't work out with a web we just add a short piece where we want it.

Roger

My first suggestion is to lay the panelling over a layer of sheetrock. The panelling, in my experience, simply is not stiff enough to support itself- unless you're putting the firring 6" apart! Nobody likes the wavy look of unsupported panelling.
(If you plan on a layer of foam insulation, the sheetrock is a MUST for fire protection. Foam burns like rocket fuel).

It is possible to use MC- it's skinnnier than pipe- but you still will have the connector running into the sheetrock, and some trimming will be needed. And then there is the issue of "mud ring" sizes.

Sure there are real shallow "cut in" boxes out there, but they will neither solve the connector problem, nor have room for more than three wires.

Wood isn't that pricey .... why not use thicker firring? A 2x2 will give you an entire 1 1/2" to work with.