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Joined: Mar 2001
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My first commercial range hood. The exhaust blower discharge (domed) housing has a sleeve for the conduit supplying the motor, but the sleeve leads to the exhaust duct. Can the conduit be run in the exhaust duct? Otherwise a separate roof penetration (which I'd like to avoid) is necessary.
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Joined: Apr 2002
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Redsy: You need a hole. NO wiring can be within the hood, ducts, etc. John
John
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Thanks John!
I didn't think so, but I was wondering what good the sleeve would do. I guess the exhaust unit could be used for applications other than hoods.
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Joined: May 2003
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That sleeve may be for the smoke detector sample tube, if it were used as a regular exaust/intake fan.
Mark Heller "Well - I oughta....." -Jackie Gleason
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Joined: Dec 2000
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Often those "mushroom ventilators" are connected to a round duct the size of the actual opening in the bottom of the fan, or have no duct at all attached. This leaves the 3/4" EMT sized chase open below.
They are a big pain to wire with a roof penetration, but mostly because getting a LT flex into them requires some "stunts".
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Joined: Jan 2005
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That pipe is a very useful chase, for running power to the motor, without getting in the way of the fan blades.
For it to work, the actual roof curb has to be somewhat larger than the ducting. Then, you can place the pipe so that it actually fits between the curb and the ducting.
You are generally required to have a space between the curb and the duct. Insul-wrapping the duct reduces, but does not eliminate, the spacing requirement.
My only problem is that the pipe is often too small for the wires you need to run, and you need to "re-engineer" it.
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Joined: Feb 2006
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Redsy, are you sure the exhaust fan is listed for use in a commercial kitchen? I do not recall a listed exhaust fan with a Sleeve leading to the exhaust duct. The listed up-blast fans I have seen have some kind sleeve/access point from the outside of the fan, leading to the motor. There should be a label, "This port for wiring access". There is usually a large port leading to the motor housing. That port is for cooling air to enter into the housing. There may be a label "This port for cooling air and is not to be used for wire entry".When you wire the fan, use water-tite or better, water-proof connections and conduit. Make sure there is enough wiring so the fan can be removed for service.
Wiring should not be run in the duct or chase. I have seen wiring run in the duct, a screwdriver used to poke a hole in the duct and the wire shoved through the jagged hole. If wiring is run in the chase, is it rated for the temperature? What happens if the wire makes contact with the outside of the duct? How are you going to seal the fire rated wall you just comprimised? If I see something like that on a job, I will contact the GC, and inspectors to voice my concerns. I will also make a note on my fire suppression system report.
Fireguy
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Bob Badger Construction & Maintenance Electrician Massachusetts
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Fireguy, Thanks. Actually the label in the compartment under the dome states clearly that if you don't use the sleeve, you SHOULD use the fan cooling inlet port to feed the motor. I plan to poke up through the roof next to the unit and feed in through the cooling port.
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Joined: Jul 2004
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I have wired well over a hundred of the fans you describe. All of them have a switch mounted on the outside with a conduit running from the back of the switch box to the inside motor area, most times with SJ cord factory wired from the switch to the motor. If is mounted to a steel curb, I make a 7/8" hole and change the M/C cable over to carflex and to the switch box .. no metal curb ?? Pitch pocket is the only other way I go. I have NEVER failed an inspection doing it either way. MAKE sure to check the motor voltage hookup ..mine have been labled 120 volt ( like they should be for my installs ) only to be wired for 208-240 from the factory
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