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#57497 - 10/16/05 08:36 AM Hanging Metal Halide fixtures  
coachman  Offline
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 15
Cherry Hill, NJ, USA
I am installing 400watt metal halide fixtures in a wharehouse with concrete ceilings & concrete beams. What type anchor for the boxes should I be using?

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#57498 - 10/16/05 09:09 AM Re: Hanging Metal Halide fixtures  
earlydean  Offline
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 751
Griswold, CT, USA
I have had success in the past with lead anchors. They require a set-tool, but they do get a good grip on the inside of the concrete hole.
Another option is epoxy.


#57499 - 10/16/05 09:51 AM Re: Hanging Metal Halide fixtures  
Cow  Offline
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 33
Hermiston, OR
1/4 inch wedge anchors(red heads) would hold well also, although lead anchors are quicker and easier to install.

#57500 - 10/16/05 10:34 AM Re: Hanging Metal Halide fixtures  
Tiger  Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 706
Crystal Lake, IL USA
Just a note that these fixtures have some hazards. I'm considering alternate fixtures on my commercial projects.


#57501 - 10/16/05 10:46 AM Re: Hanging Metal Halide fixtures  
Redsy  Offline
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,056
Bucks County PA

Keep in mind that some concrete ceilings consist of pre-cast slabs, which often have hollow portions.
If thats the case, you may need toggles, or t-anchors.

#57502 - 10/16/05 05:02 PM Re: Hanging Metal Halide fixtures  
sierra electrician  Offline
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 219
North Fork, CA USA
Lead anchors and wedge's work good for supporting a box. I hope your not planning to hang the fixture from that box, if so epoxey might be better. I has a much higher pull rateing.


#57503 - 10/16/05 08:56 PM Re: Hanging Metal Halide fixtures  
Jps1006  Offline
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 615
Northern IL
I prefer the wedge because the load will continue to "wedge" or put pressure on the frictional surfaces. I have had inspectors in the past disallow lead as support means in this type of application because in fire they would melt at a lower temp and become one more hazard for the firemen.

#57504 - 10/16/05 09:40 PM Re: Hanging Metal Halide fixtures  
dmattox  Offline
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 265
Anaheim, CA
Did a google search and I found this site that compares concrete anchors. The only 2 that are rated for heavy duty are:

I use the later all the time. Can be a bit of a nightmare if you screw them. But, they hold really well.

Never tried the first one, it looks kinda interesting though.

Look at the ratings though, 900lbs+ using the 1/4". Plenty strong for a fixture as long as the concrete is in good shape.

[This message has been edited by dmattox (edited 10-16-2005).]

#57505 - 10/16/05 09:59 PM Re: Hanging Metal Halide fixtures  
electure  Offline

Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 4,262
Fullerton, CA USA
Be sure to find out beforehand if you've got a "post-tension" concrete structure before selecting any anchors.
Post-tension decks can only have anchors that are very shallow without x-raying the deck and getting a structural engineer's OK.

If that's the case, Hilti makes some 3/8" slugs that will do the trick.

#57506 - 10/17/05 07:20 AM Re: Hanging Metal Halide fixtures  
e57  Offline
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,876
Ditto on knowing the contruction of the cieling. I was in a building where the sprinkler installer hit a post tension cable, and sent it half way out the side of the building. They had to have re-engineering of the floor loading, after X-raying most of the floor.

Hilti makes a really expensive heavy duty under-cutting anchor that is great for this, but check around, 'cause Hilti has some licensed under other names that are less expensive, and the same product. for instance Toggler (TM) is the same as the Hilti toggle bolt, but 3X as much.

And if you use epoxy, blow out the hole, or you're just sticking to dust.

Mark Heller
"Well - I oughta....." -Jackie Gleason

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