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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 129
H
hypress Offline OP
Member
1 TESTING HV GLOVES
Does anybody test their own HV gloves by water immersion ? I worked for a contractor that did and I am telling the plant where I work now that all we need is a test tank but it is falling on deaf ears. We have a 80KV hipot. The 6 month testing schedule is a real hassel time they are rounded up packaged and shiped out of town. I forgot all the paper that has to be shuffeled.
2 480 VOLT MOTOR CONNECTIONS
How do you tape a 480 volt motor? When I tape a motor I use backward 88 or 33 on the lugs then 130C then 88 or 33 sticky side in .That was the way I was taught. Most of the other electricians only use just 88 or 33 no rubber.
3 REMOVEING OLD TAPE
What is the best to remove old tape ? Our plant was built in the 40s and we have some old terminations that are made rubber tape ductseal and 88 or 33 and sometimes friction tape. We cut pry chisel but it seems to take forever. I thought about useing a CO2 fire extingusher and freezing then cracking them but I have not ever tried it.

Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 219
S
Member
Good question hypress.
I use 1700 to keep the lug or split-bolt free of nasty glues or rubber, and then 130 then 1700 again and then 33+.
I've never had one fail.
I do not use Cambrik any more because after time the glue just made too much mess on the connection
As for removal I just use my razor knife and limemans.

Rob

Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,056
R
Member
Have you considered using something other than split bolts?
They seem outdated to me: http://ebusiness.ilsco.com/webapp/w...d=-1&catalogId=1&categoryId=1041
http://ebusiness.ilsco.com/webapp/w...Id=-1&catalogId=1&categoryId=133

[This message has been edited by Redsy (edited 08-28-2005).]

Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 44
Member
As For testing HV Gloves I've Heard to Blow them up with air Using you breath, Then to roll the cuff up to see if it leaks. Never tried it though. I Generally try HARD not to Work on Live Stuff that requires Gloves.
As for Taping Split Bolt Lugs. We Start with a Lap of 33+ Then SEVERAL wraps of 130C, Then Cover it in 33+ Just to Protect the 130C. The First Wrap of 33+ that you put on is to aid you when you remove it next time. I'll asume that you have removed at least one splice that had 130C right on the lug. Pain it the You know what to get off. That first wrap 0f 33+ saves alot of time and Cussing when you remove it! As far as removal. Use a razor knife to Make a ring around it, Clear to the lug/splitbolt. Then use a needle nose pliers to pull the two sides apart.


It's Not The Fall That Kills You...
It's That Sudden Stop At The End
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,064
D
Member
I've always heard that wrapping teflon tape around the spilt bolt first, always makes them easier to get apart later..

Dnk....


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