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Cut-in Work in lathe and plaster #51707 05/08/05 09:44 AM
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 265
D
dmattox Offline OP
Member
Anyone have any tips for doing cutin work in lathe and plaster? Jigsaw and sawsall seem to be a sure way to end up needing a patch. Skill saw works well but is a huge mess. Hand saws are really slow. Anyone got a tip?

Work Gear for Electricians and the Trades
Re: Cut-in Work in lathe and plaster #51708 05/08/05 09:50 AM
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 267
W
Wirenuttt Offline
Member
Try a roto zip

Re: Cut-in Work in lathe and plaster #51709 05/08/05 09:59 AM
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 265
D
dmattox Offline OP
Member
I actually tried that but burned through a tile cutting bit with my first hole. Is there a bit you would recommend?

Re: Cut-in Work in lathe and plaster #51710 05/08/05 10:00 AM
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 109
L
livetoride Offline
Member
I use a 4" side grinder with diamond blade or a rotozip most of the time. If the wall has wooden lath I cut the plaster then change blades in the roto zip and cut the wood. Running the shop vac helps keep the mess down some. If I need to do a clean job (no dust)I use a hand saw, slow but less messy. A sawzall tends to grab and pull the plaster loose and make cracks. Rod

Re: Cut-in Work in lathe and plaster #51711 05/08/05 11:16 AM
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,457
E
Electricmanscott Offline
Member
Quote
Hand saws are really slow
First you have to accept this type of work in itself is really slow. What works for me is lay out your cut and then chip out the plaster with a plaster removel tool. (screwdriver) Then cut the lath with a sharp hand saw or a roto zip with a wood bit.

Re: Cut-in Work in lathe and plaster #51712 05/08/05 11:18 AM
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,064
D
Dnkldorf Offline
Member
Sawzall or jigsaw with a carbide blade.

Dnk.....

Re: Cut-in Work in lathe and plaster #51713 05/08/05 12:15 PM
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 209
H
HLCbuild Offline
Member
I found that the cordless saws like my Makita 4" 12volt make a nice clean cut and the blade spins so slow that the dust just drops to the floor without spraying all over the room. Prior to this I was using my 4" mini grinder with a "dust muzzle" attachment. This was a neat little plastic guard that hooks up to a 1 1/4" vacuum hose that sends most of the dust to your shop vac.the dust muzzle is at: www.dustmuzzle.com
Good luck,
Harold

Re: Cut-in Work in lathe and plaster #51714 05/08/05 02:07 PM
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 687
A
Active 1 Offline
Member
I know the problem with the sawsall is the blade grabs on the backing boards then the plaster comes loose all over. If used a sharp blade is a must. You can kill 1 normal blade per hole.

Screw driver chipping out works.

I had luck with a hole saw. Several cuts and then chipping out the corners for a box.

Those roto zip blades allways burn up on me. Maybe I have the wrong type.

I hered the idea of screwing a piece of pllywood all around the hole to be cut. This is to keep the lath from comming loose.

Tom

Re: Cut-in Work in lathe and plaster #51715 05/08/05 02:34 PM
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 333
S
stamcon Offline
Member
I use a 3 3/8" cordless makita saw with a diamond blade for the plaster and a sharp blade in a jigsaw for the lath. The jigsaw can be handled with one hand and the lath stabilized from bouncing with my other hand.

steve


Steve
Re: Cut-in Work in lathe and plaster #51716 05/08/05 04:53 PM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 693
L
Larry Fine Offline
Member
If the plaster has metal lath, a hacksaw blade is the way to go. It's helpful to use the blade so the teeth cut on the push stroke. You can get a hacksaw-blade holder that allows using the blade like a keyhole saw.

A hacksaw blade can be used for wood lath, too. The best way to loosen as little of the lath as possible is to make the vertical cut farther from the nearest stud first, then the cut closer to the stud; the closer, the better.


Larry Fine
Fine Electric Co.
fineelectricco.com
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