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#51662 05/06/05 03:02 PM
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 179
D
derater Offline OP
Member
All the kinds I've installed before were spec'd / provided.Now I have the opportunity
to recommend mfg./type/style to a h/o.What's the concensus,if there is one on
low volt vs. line volt; halogen vs.
fluoresent, puck, strip,etc.; keeping in mind they want minimum switching to avoid
more openings in future tile backslash.
BTW, they also want over cabinet lights
for 'accent' and I'm leaning to rope lights
for that.Thanks, Dan.

Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28
K
Member
check seagull lighting and search for ambiance. its a very easy to use and install low voltage system.

Kelley

Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 125
S
Member
I use the nxl 2-lamp xenon they a nice an give off just enough light and easy to install.

Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 209
H
Member
I like the Kichler Xenon u/c lights that are in a metal case with a glass lens covering the whole thing. They are sturdy and easy to relamp. Also low profile. I've been using them for about 3 years now since I got away from the halogen lights.

Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 687
A
Member
For easy I like CSL halogen 120v under cabs. Each buld is 35w. The 1' has 1 bulb, 2' is 2 bulb, and 3' is a 3 bulber. Customer say they are bright. They have a built in dim setting on a switch but it's a poor quality and can see the light flicker. Never had to but you could use a normal dimmer. One limit to these is they only come in certain sizes.

For more extravicant I use the Juno trac 12: http://www.junolighting.com/productinfo/trac_t12_intro.asp

Juno does not seem to have all the parts listed on the web site.

I think Halo makes about the same.

You can custom fit them to any size. You can also adjust the spacing and bulb size for the customer. We use the smaller bulbs about every 3-4". Be carefull not to overload the end feeds. Of corse you would need a transformer (go magnetic) hidden in a remote place. You have to watch voltage drop. IF disired they should have special dimmers. Many LV dimmers have a low wattage rating (some 300) with out using other pieces ($$$). The wattage can add up fast with these. The bulbs seem to last years ard are easy to change. My money saving tip if using these buy your bulbs by the box from an auto parts store (#194 bulb).

Here is something simular but nerer used it: http://www.ccl-light.com/docs/undercab/cal.html

The same web site has rope & LED lighting. Here they made a point about UL delisting some rope light: http://www.ccl-light.com/docs/rope/2wirespecs.html

Rope is cheaper but I would not use it for the kitchen. It only puts out about 6w per foot. Not bright enough IMO. It can be difficult to try to get it to lay flat. If the rope twists while installing then it affects the lighting. Because the bulb is more on one side of the rope it will make bright & dim spots when twisted.

Tom

Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,457
E
Member
The problem with the csl line voltage 35 watt halogen fixtures Tom mentioned is that they get HOT. I have installed hundreds of undercabinet lights of all types and I find the 12 volt Xenon type to be the best. Good light output, long lamp life, less heat, and easy installation. Look at this site under "Xenon Task Light" http://www.nslusa.com/



[This message has been edited by Electricmanscott (edited 05-07-2005).]

Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 7
J
Junior Member
For flourescent I just started using Juno, the model # stats with U. I used to use alko little inch, but they are expensive. The juno is about 1/3 the cost. It is also 1/2 the size. It uses an electronic ballast and has a 3000k lamp included. I also used these for over cabinet lights as well.

WAC makes a zenon undercab with a hi-low switch that is nice and fairly cost effective.

For a continious light strip, dimmable, your best bet is seagull ambiance. I like to use 24v 10w frosted festoon lamps. This is probably the best cost effective way to do it. Seagull can also be used on the rails fopr "in cab" lights


john

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