Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but you need one more (insulated) conductor between the lights.
Boy, that extra light makes all the difference!
I always run the 3-wires between the switch boxes and run a "switched leg" to the lights, then adding 4-ways or more lights is a piece of cake...
I've had a trim out once where the situation was the same but only with one light, and I wasn't sure I could do it correctly then without sitting down with pencil and paper first. (I didn't do the rough-in, btw)
In short, break out the drywall saw and apply the elbow grease! (Or blank plate the second light...)
240V bulbs with the series idea would work, but would create a hot screwshell...
-Virgil Residential/Commercial Inspector 5 Star Inspections Member IAEI
gewarren; I'll give it a shot, >feed common of switch #1 >continue noodle to screwshell of light #1 >bring hot contact of light to common of switch #2 > fish H&N to from light #1 to light #2 via 12-2 or 14-2 (whatever you've used) > this is assuming no mettalic pipe.
Sparky just saw the web-site for the three-ways where do you find some of these sites, the graphics are first-rate.
Gwarren 1. do the switch legs feed thru the fixtures? 2. where does the hot feed come from ? from one of the fixtures ? or from one of the switches. 3. If it is a pre-existing set-up the travelers could be crossed at one of the swithces.
Not necessarily, if you bring a 3/c into the first box, the travelers feed thru to the second switch, then run a 2/c to the second light. The 3/c going to the second switch will have to remarked, the white from the first switch is already used. So make the second set of travelers white w/black tape and red for the second set of travelers and the black going to the light hot.
Re: 3-way switch circuit#4843 10/23/0112:20 AM10/23/0112:20 AM
You may not be totally out of luck. You only need another cable between the fixtures, and if they are both in the same ceiling between two joists and there is no blocking in between, you may be able to pull it by just removing the boxes.
If that is not an option, you may be able to get your lights to work using an X-10 controller or something similiar for one of the switches. To do this, replace the upstream switch with a remotely controlled switch and wire it normally. Attach the message wire to the hot and splice it and the neutral all the way through to the other switch. Replace the other switch with an remote control for the first.
I'm sure that's as clear as mud, but if you look at the X-10 switches available, perhaps it will become clearer. I've seen an arrangement like this for old work ceiling fans.