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#43239 10/07/04 09:10 PM
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 697
D
Dave55 Offline OP
Member
Am I the only one that has trouble screwing in a light bulb sometimes. Go ahead & joke about it, but with some fixtures the bulb seems to scrape its way in. Sometimes I lick the threads to lube it, but there are probably some manufacturing chemicals on it, so..do you use anything to lube the bulbs?

The worst lately seems to be Halo H7ICT cans. The socket hinges on the side & with the slight pressure of screwing in the bulb it cross-threads. Then it's really hard to get out. Seems like I used a Juno that I was happier with.

Any suggestions?

Dave

#43240 10/07/04 10:46 PM
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 518
J
Member
Can't say I've ever had that exact problem.

I see auto part stores selling "bulb lube." In the old days, where there was a harsh environment, we coated threads, etc., with anti-seize compound. I see that Noalox, etc., are now listed for such use; they're similar to anti-seize, only thicker.

#43241 10/07/04 11:13 PM
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 615
J
Member
I know what you are talking about Dave. Never thought about lube though.

Kind of on topic (don't mean to threadjack) has anyone heard of something called liquid copper? I thought it was made by Ideal, Burndy, or T&B. My suppliers give me a slack-jawed blank stare when I bring it up to them. Like NOALOX, but meant to lube & improve the joint.

#43242 10/07/04 11:21 PM
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 518
J
Member
"Liquid copper" sounds like a description of C5-A, an industrial anti-seize compound that has powdered copper in it.

#43243 10/07/04 11:28 PM
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 324
A
Member
How about globe lube. As you resi guys know, they have just about stopped using set screws for bath fixture globes and gone to a threaded ceramic lampholder with a metal nut that threads on to hold the globe up.

Man what a stupid design, if you get one cross threaded it can take 10 minutes to get it undone. And i cant even fit my hand in some of the smaller globes.

#43244 10/08/04 12:14 AM
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,876
E
e57 Offline
Member
I have a bottle of "bulb lube" made by Andrews Electric Inc., and I was going to post a link, but it seems www.bulblube.com is no longer with us. So I took a picture of the bottle I have... www.markhellerelectric.com/bulblube.jpg

Dave.... Try some Noalox, liqid copper, or simular lubricant, like any duty Corrossion-X, stop licking the bulbs. (people may start to talk... )

Liquid Copper (copper) and Noalox (zinc) are simular both have powdered metal in them. One you should obviouly not use with Aluminum.



[This message has been edited by e57 (edited 10-08-2004).]


Mark Heller
"Well - I oughta....." -Jackie Gleason
#43245 10/08/04 12:27 AM
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 947
T
twh Offline
Member
Quote
Sometimes I lick the threads
I always wondered how people discovered things like getting high by licking a frog. What does a bulb taste like? Do you get a buzz?

I use de-ox (no, not for licking) for lubing aluminum teck connector threads. I'm not sure I like the idea of putting something conductive into a light socket. I assume de-ox is conductive.

#43246 10/08/04 02:47 AM
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,498
Likes: 1
C
C-H Offline
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Quote
I'm not sure I like the idea of putting something conductive into a light socket.

You mean like a light bulb? [Linked Image]

#43247 10/08/04 06:25 AM
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 32
K
Member
Dave,
Check out www.copperwolf.com. They have a product called "Bulbez" We use it on all HID lamp installations now and it works great. NOALOX did not work well,when the lamps heated up it hardened and fused the lamp base to the socket.
KB
KB

[This message has been edited by KBSHORTS (edited 10-08-2004).]

#43248 10/08/04 09:14 AM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 650
W
Member
Jps1006:

Are you talking about Thomas+Betts Kopr-Shield? Part number CP8-TB... http://www.tnb-canada.com/en/catalogues/online/industrial_MRO/pdf/c3/mro_ckeyed1p_eng.pdf

I've never been able to figure out precisely where it may be used. Automotive folks clearly use it on things like bulbs and quick connects...but to quote the packaging:

Quote
Every Threaded joint, every mating surface, every solderless connection is improved and protected by KOPR-SHIELD(R)* compound. It literally "copperplates" mating surfaces to improve conductivity or ground continuity.....

but elsewhere on the package is says:
Quote

NOTE: UL Listed only on electrical cables in cable/connector assemblies or on bus bars rated for NEC applications up to 8kV and 90C
UL LISTED 913F Conductor Termination Compound

Don't know if this stuff would be legit lubricating a bulb screw base.

-Jon

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