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1 members (Scott35),
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 2,723 Likes: 1
Broom Pusher and Member
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I prefer the #2 type, shown in Bob's picture (iwire's picture).
It looks like the ones with the "forked bracket" that sets on the MC Cable's sheathing, and is adjusted / set via the 8/32 screw.
Scott35
Scott " 35 " Thompson
Just Say NO To Green Eggs And Ham!
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 86
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I always used speed locks unless I was doing a cut-in box, in which case I used the one that looks like a romex connector. Ryan_J, Why don't you use speed locks or snap in connectors when doing a cut-in box?
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,438
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Personally, I use the Arlington "Speedlocks" & have never had a problem with them.... I've used the Arlington version of the #2 connector with the set screw & never had a problem with those either... The speedlocks are awesome when you need to fish MC down a wall to an existing J-box.. No locknut to fuss with.. ![[Linked Image]](https://www.electrical-contractor.net/ubb/smile.gif) -Randy PS... I get a good reliable ground connection by bonding the ground wire where appropriate, this typically bonds the outer sheath at both ends via the connector & box.
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 86
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The speedlocks are awesome when you need to fish MC down a wall to an existing J-box.. No locknut to fuss with.. Yea but how do you snap in the connector without getting a hold of the MC cable?
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,374
Moderator
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Ryan_J, Why don't you use speed locks or snap in connectors when doing a cut-in box? I always attached the clamp on the cable, then put it down the wall, then threaded the locknut on after the the cable was in the box and the box was in the wall. Speed locks just seemed like a PITA for this application. Do you use them for cut-in boxes?
Ryan Jackson,
Salt Lake City
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,438
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Straightedge... A quick, little tug on the wires entering the KO once its down into the box secures the snap in connector Otherwise, trying to get a locknut tight on a connector, when you can't grab the other end of it is kind of a pain in the #$$.. -Randy
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 86
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I always attached the clamp on the cable, then put it down the wall, then threaded the locknut on after the the cable was in the box and the box was in the wall. Speed locks just seemed like a PITA for this application. Do you use them for cut-in boxes? I'm with you on that one Ryan_J. I specifically carry both types of MC Connectors on my van. I am loyal to the Snap-In Connector except for cut-in-boxes. I have to go with the thread and lock ring for my cut in boxes. I don't know how Lostazhell can snap in the Connector without pulling the conductors out of the cable. Maybe he can expand a little more?
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 814
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I use the snap ins all the time on cutins. Just grap ahold of the wires and pull with a slight rocking motion and click click its in.
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,438
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Straightedge, Big B explained it perfectly I'll fish the MC down the wall with either my fiberglass "pullstick" or something else... I pull the wires through the KO opening, A little tug on the wires back & forth & everythings in place.. Unless youre pulling a piece of MC less than a foot long, good chance the wires are not going to pull out of the MC sheathing. (At least it's never happened in the 100 or so times I've done this) -Randy [This message has been edited by Lostazhell (edited 05-14-2004).]
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 86
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Well, when I do a cut-in-box the walls are usually only 10' high. Only a 15' peice of mc cable is necessary. I can never get the snap-tite connector to fully engage into the knock out without pulling a significant length of conductors out of the matal sheathing.
I use lock ring type of mc connectors for this application.
Tev
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Posts: 70
Joined: January 2002
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