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#32736 01/01/04 06:34 PM
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 378
F
frank Offline OP
Member
I have a wartime house that i will be rewiring and was wondering how you guys would go about pricing the job.Its your basic lath and plaster construction the service is new and the basement already wired.The first and second floor is knob & tube.I work mostly Industrial but have done a few of these jobs, however it was for family and I worked for free.Should I charge T&M or by the drop?And how much per drop if I do it that way.Happy New Year

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#32737 01/01/04 07:13 PM
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 558
G
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T&M's the only way we do a job like that.

If they insist on a price,mine usually scares 'em. [Linked Image]

#32738 01/01/04 07:16 PM
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,457
E
Member
T&M, No doubt!

#32739 01/03/04 08:35 PM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 524
Member
..If they flinch at T&M,you gotta make a good list of everything you'll be covering...receptacles,switches,luminaires,dedicated circuits,..etc...and total up ALL of the material you'll have to get..Leave room for error...then take each task,one by one, and estimate,as best you could, how long that particular task is gonna take you...whether it's snaking in a wire,hanging a box,installing a fixture,..(which by the way,I have the H.O. pick out and supply...sometimes it's easier that way..)Set an hourly rate for yourself,and consider that if you have help,and have to pay that helper..it should be included in your rate..Then total every thing up and you've got a pretty good ballpark figure to bargain with..Figure in your permit cost as well..Most of all,express that this is the price for the items covered..and any deviations or "add-ons" are at an extra cost..this usually discourages the H.O. from changing his/her mind 9,000 times throughout the project...I think that covers it...GOOD LUCK..take your time in figuring this out,..you don't wanna get stuck doin; something for free!!!
AR


.."if it ain't fixed,don't break it...call a Licensed Electrician"
#32740 01/03/04 08:43 PM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 524
Member
...or you can price it "piece work"..and set a price for every task..ie;Receptacles @$35.00e,and single pole switches,@$35.00 per..3-ways I usually charge $45.00e,..Dimmers are usually not included in my bid unless expressly specified..but these are prices for open stud roughing,and closed wall snaking costs quite a bit more..it's more time consuming..ya gotta make that crystal clear to the H.O....
..ya also should take gutting the knob & tube into consideration..figure in the time you think it should take you,..then add an hour or two...hope this helps you..
AR


[This message has been edited by Attic Rat (edited 01-03-2004).]


.."if it ain't fixed,don't break it...call a Licensed Electrician"
#32741 01/04/04 11:35 AM
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,143
D
Member
I agree with the T&M method. I know of some estimating methods that include a 20-50% labor upcharge for old work/remodels.

(BTW, If you're lucky, and your AHJ allows NM, it fits pretty neatly through the holes left in the framing when you pop out the tubes. Saves drilling and lets you follow the same path back home)

#32742 01/04/04 01:42 PM
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 378
F
frank Offline OP
Member
Thanks for the replies.Bx is mandatory here and what i usually do is install new rework boxes and drop jack chain down the walls then remove the old knob and tube and fill the old empty boxes moving room to room. If you guys have any more suggestions to make the job easier or tricks of the trade it would be greatly appreciated.Even though I'm a licensed guy you only know the work you that you do so with 13yrs in the trade I’m still a rookie at these types of jobs.thanks

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