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#32159 12/16/03 07:22 PM
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,044
Tom Offline OP
Member
I'm wiring a new house (this is a rarity for me) and I'm wondering what others do to mount a doorbell button on brick. Is there a specific product made for this? Or, do you just mount the button on the wood casing for the door?

Thanks

Tom


Few things are harder to put up with than the annoyance of a good example.
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 4,116
Likes: 4
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Tom,

I think the wood casing is the way to go. I don't think I've ever seen one on Brick, but I suppose it could be.

Bill


Bill
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 114
S
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tapcons maybe? kinda big and ugly tho

Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 156
K
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You could always use a stucco button and drill a 3/4" hole. Use some latex caulk inside the hole to hold the stucco button and tape it tight till the caulk sets up. Stucco buttons only come in so many styles but you can easily fit it on a single brick. They do make specific buttons for brick applications. Ran across a recessed one that takes the place of a brick. Never could find it locally though.

Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 524
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I would go thru the door buck....if ya can get your bell wire in there...less hassle!!


.."if it ain't fixed,don't break it...call a Licensed Electrician"
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 597
E
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Working in the historic sections of Minneapolis / St. Paul, I have seen my share of old masonry installations, and done new installs in masonry.

The worst problems in the old work come from conductors trimmed to the minimum length. . .

Second worst problem is created by the wood screw blocks set by the original mason having disintegrated leaving gaping holes. . .

I prefer to use small plastic anchors that are sized for the door button manufacturer supplied mounting screws. The screws tend to be #4, and sometimes as large as #6, so the anchor gets drilled in with a 3/16" (or smaller) carbide bit.

Many times, the aesthetic, that the door button has to match, will allow a choice of a wide or tall (or both) decorative button plate that will cover a multitude of goofs.

Door casing vs. masonry? The bottom line there, for me, is the placement that is most natural for the guest at the door. Part of what is sold in the installation is a "graciousness" to the client's guest-at-the-door.


Al Hildenbrand
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,691
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Are you guys talking about those cheesy little doorbell switches that snap into a hole in the wall (usually used on metal door frames) or are you talking about the big round surface-mount ones that look like little overturned cups or brass cartoon eyeballs? Those little ones don't seem to be very happy being mounted in brick or anything like that.

[This message has been edited by SvenNYC (edited 12-17-2003).]

Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 7,520
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It's a problem here in Britain with so much brick construction. Trying to mount most of our bell-pushes direct to brick doesn't usually result in a good job, so I generally use a wooden pattress block behind them. Getting the wire to the switch neatly is a problem, so I prefer mounting on a wooden door frame if possible.

PVC-framed doors are popular here on modern homes, and one thing to watch is that any extra holes can invalidate the manufacturer's warranty.

Click here to see the typical range of pushes used in Britain.

Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,143
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The wood trim (brick mould?) is the usual spot for new installs. Easier to run the wire inside the interior molding and through hole drilled in floor hidden my trim pieces.

My house, however, has a cast bronze mailbox/doorbell button combo - which required ripping into the inside wall to replace the wire. Luckily, the button size is the same today as it was in 1934!

Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,498
T
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If you can fix it to the door frame that's probably the best way. Otherwise plastic anchors are perfect. The brute force method to route the wire to a button mounted onto the bricks is drilling a hole all through the wall with a long drill bit. I've seen 60cm drill bits used for that purpose her in Austria. Going through the door trim is probably way easier.

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