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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 152
A
Member
Perhaps I am one of "those" homeowners. I have several (3 and 4 way) in the house and requested that when all handles are down the lights are off (I don't care if the lights are off or on if one / more handles are up), I just like it that way.

Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,213
S
Member
There is a fix for this: Push-buttons!

Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 558
R
Member
Yep.. " Douglas Low Voltage Controls".. Those would work nice here but would be pricey... Just don't use the switches with the little red and green status LED indicator in them, as the homeowner will probably argue that "red = stop = OFF, Green = go = ON" when Douglas stuff is set up " Red = CLOSED relay contact, Green = OPEN relay contact"!

A.D

Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,213
S
Member
Lutron makes some nice pushbutton switches, too. We've got one pushbutton 3-way with an integrated dimmer. Never have to worry about up/down with it.

Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 7,520
P
Member
I just changed out some switches and receptacles for a neighbor's kitchen to those fancy matt-black finish types to match his remodel, and he said that he prefers the 3-ways to be arranged so that one up/one down=on and both up/down=off.

Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 763
K
Member
I guess I’m one of those anal types. When I install 3-way and 4-way switches, I always reverse the travelers on the opposite end so I can stage the room with the lights off and all switches in the down position. I like to connect Skylark and similar style 3-way dimmers with the little horizontal toggle switches on them so that I can stage them all with the left sides depressed when off, like on the single-pole dimmers.
If I don’t do it, it feels like the job is incomplete, just like if I don’t level the wall plates and set all the plate screw so the slots are vertical. If the plate screws are Phillips head, then I like the slots to be set level so they look like a cross and all devices must protrude the same depth through the plates.
Another thing I can’t stand is when the bulb socket height in recessed lights are not adjusted when the trims are installed, so that the bulbs all protrude the same amount. eek
To me, little details like this just make the job more professional overall. Many customers expect these things to be done and really do notice if they are not.

Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 8,407
Member
Until the Inspector appears......

Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 4,031
Member
I'm with KJay,

I used to do the same things with the switches and screws. It just seemed like the right thing to do crazy


Bill
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 21
E
Member
ohhh you and I would not get along smile

My standard is, assuming I am the only frequent user of a hall or set of stairs, the "off" state should be with one switch up, one switch down.

I should be able to turn the light on from one end, walk to the other end, and turn it off. Then, a couple hours later, I start from the latter end, turn the light on, walk back to the start, and turn it off. It does not feel right to turn a light on by flipping the switch down, or off by flipping it up. Thus, the switch on the end that I am at should be down for off, while the other should be UP since the light will be on by the time I get to that switch.

Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 9,643
G
Member
I am all down equals off too.


Greg Fretwell
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